Cherry picked Planet Reprap - A RepRap blog aggregator

December 18, 2014

New reprap images on Photobucket

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Mendelmax 2.0 tweaking and adjusting

by turnymom at December 18, 2014 12:12 AM

December 17, 2014

Thingiverse - Newest Things

Customizable rotating ajustable vent


While working on my printer enclusure, I stumbles upon this ajustable vent thingiverse.com/thing:55205, but it was not the right size for me. So I took inspiration from it and to practice my skill with openSCAD, I decided to make a customizable version from scratch.

I added screw holders because I did not want to glue the vent and I also added an inside part to screw it on and to hide the inside os the hole.

Like the inspiration part, you can use 3mm filament to joint the door and holed part or you can customize the hole size you want.

by Ilmion at December 17, 2014 11:11 PM

Merry Marblevator Christmas Tree


Yet another Marblevator, this time in Christmas Tree form.

Video of prototype is here: youtube.com/watch?v=6fe9wRFAmWg&list=UUv_zm49u-RjnCJVwhUO-ecA.

Video of prototype high speed track break in here: youtube.com/watch?v=7WtRruzbctw&index=2&list=UUv_zm49u-RjnCJVwhUO-ecA

Working on some presents for under the tree.

Designed using Sketchup Make 2015, and printed in PLA on a Makerbot Replicator 2 using Makerware 2.3.3.42 "Standard" (.2mm layer height, 2 shells, 10% infill) settings.

by gzumwalt at December 17, 2014 11:04 PM

Open3DP (Open 3D Printing)

DIY Support study #2: Adding complexity

As the complexity of the part increased from our initial support design study : http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/2014/12/diy-support-study1/, the support we originally made was no longer suitable for use, as it would get trapped within the lattice structure we created, and be impossible to pull out. Now things are getting interesting..

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We noticed two things from our prior experiment:

1.  We wasted time and filament making solid support.  We needed to turn the support into a shell to reduce heat, and wasted material.  This will also make it easier to break out later.

2. We needed to add thin sections in the support to make it weak enough there to break apart to get it out.

Here is what the completed part looked like from the bottom:

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You can see now that the support was hollowed after it was designed in by using a “shell” command in Solidworks. We used a .5 MM shell thickness, which was a bit overkill.  It could have been done with .3 with equal success. The gaps between the part and it’s support was consistent with the last setup.  You can see in the foreground that there was a built in stress riser (thin spot about .05 MM thick) up the middle to aid in breakout, and the results were the support came out in two equal pieces.  The results were excellent!

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by Eamon McQuaide at December 17, 2014 10:58 PM

What masking tape is best to print PLA on?

I don’t know.  But I do know that in practice I’m not all that impressed with the performance of blue painter’s tape either.  It doesn’t have a very strong adhesion with the print bed (it’s adhesive was designed to be easily removable), so there are two cases in which I have had issues:

1.  Long parts.  If you lay down plastic in a straight line on your print bed, a certain percentage of that length will be lost to linear contraction of the material as it cools.

2. Heated build beds.  Blue tape was designed to be put on walls and trim around your home as a mask that won’t leave behind a residue.  It was not designed to be stuck to a surface, and have that surface heated up to 100 degrees C while maintaining it’s full adhesive properties (common ABS plate temp).  Especially with our ABS builds, we have had problems not only with the plastic not sticking to the tape (wrong nozzle zero height setting) but with the part actually pulling the tape off of the bed under contraction.

I set out to find a solution to this problem, and found with a bit of searching, High temperature masking tape (MCMASTER PART # 7627A27).

The tape comes in 3″ X 60′ rolls, and costs about 18.50 a roll.  It claims to be stable up to 325 degrees F. It’s not cheap, but it’s also been very durable.  Our issues with part adhesion have gone away completely with the use of this tape, as well as the thermal degradation of the tape adhesive when used on a heated build plate.

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The nice thing about masking tape, is it is not as sensitive to nozzle Z height adjustments as Kapton tape is. I’m guessing this is due to it’s slightly “fuzzy” texture that the liquid plastic bonds to kind of like velcro, or just the fact that it is not smooth, and therefore has more surface area for the plastic to adhere to.  This means with the many, many people who use our printers (with highly varying degrees of…..ehem….ability), we don’t have to re-level the beds constantly.

There are some things to be careful about when using this tape:

1. Don’t heat the build plate above 25 degrees C with PLA!!!!!!!! You will never get your part unstuck without damaging the tape!

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2. Consistent with above, you may need to experiment with how close to set your Nozzle Z-zero height to get your desired release strength.  The plastics I have used tend to stick better to this tape than the blue tape.

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Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported.

by Eamon McQuaide at December 17, 2014 10:12 PM

Tales of a modern life

OpenBCI

After doing some initial ECG experiments with a simple Arduino shield,
I got my OpenBCI just in time for 31C3.
For the time being, I'll use this blog posting to collect some links and notes until I get things sorted out.
Much of the OpenBCI documentation on the official site and source code repository is still unwritten,
so I need to do a lot of hunting, gathering, guessing and experimenting.

Results so far:
  • I see clear signals with lots of SNR for muscle movements and eye movement
  • The OpenBCI_GUI app has way too little in the ways of signal analysis.
  • I'm having trouble using my Olimex EEG designs in BrainBay with the OpenBCI


Getting started
People/Talks/Blogs

SW

HW

Headware
  • Where to store the battery pack? (TODO)

    by Marcus Wolschon (noreply@blogger.com) at December 17, 2014 08:46 PM

    Thingiverse - Newest Derivatives

    transforming Viking


    "transform and roll out!"

    this model/miniature is designed after the Viking out of Starcraft 2 and can transform from a fighter to an assault/mech mode

    it's somewhat poseable in mech-mode, since the legs are ball-jointed... the rest sits on 1-DOF joints/pins... so don't expect to much posing from them :-P

    this is most likely not suited for small/young children since it's somewhat fragile... i'm targeting more all those grown-up/older kids out there who like to put toys on shelves for display ;-)

    ---
    transform sequence (fighter -> assault):

    * unfold the legs
    * fold the fins on the wings
    * sweep back the wings
    * rotate and extend gattlings
    * in one motion rotate rear (with the wings) and lower rocket-pods (with gattlings attached)
    * push-back cockpit and lower attached frontal fins
    * enjoy :-D

    by Jooxoe3i at December 17, 2014 08:12 PM

    Simpler Catan Wood Tile


    A much simpler, faster printing wood tile, based on JAWong's tiles: thingiverse.com/thing:26979

    Uses Zampik's awesome tree model!
    thingiverse.com/thing:39828

    Credit as well to gerko87; thingiverse.com/thing:261449

    My first model ever, hope you enjoy

    by ryandmontag at December 17, 2014 07:43 PM

    December 16, 2014

    RepStrap.dk

    When bad rods happen to good print beds

    Print Bed Assembly: The hex pillars I have just have a hole straight through, so I use M3x30 bolts to fasten them. A bit unclear which side of the PCB was up, but an image shows the side with MK2a turned up, I'll trust that.

    It was a bit tricky to get the cable in right. Looping the cable loosely through the clamps before putting bed and dibond together would have been easier.

    Again using that weird misdimensioned multicolored Conrad ribbon cable instead of polypropylene. I hope it doesn't cause weird electromagnetic effects.

    Y Axis Assembly: Twisted green wires are a little short, but the manual says "about 750mm".

    My microswitches have a little "blade" above the button. If it turns out to be a problem, I'm still orienting the button as indicated. Slotted screws are stupid. Throw rocks at them.

    I don't see a mouse hole in the right stay (except for the one the motor is using). Around the side it is.

    Great! The Y motor wires are way too short. Fix later.

    Unclear which way the belt should be threaded through the idler. Does it matter? I know not yet.

    Attached rods. The carriage does not slide lightly back and forth. If I don't hold against the frame, the entire machine moves along. That cannot be right. I suspect the odd matte rods I got are too rough, maybe. Could also be a side-effect of the holders not being fastened yet, but I would expect the manual to mention that. Also, the right-hand bearing was to be loose until now, but fastening it while on here is difficult.

    Check out in this video how the frame moves along:



    Additionally, the Y motor wires come out the top, where they would be better off coming out the side. I guess I misunderstood "downwards", but now at least I have an excuse to take off the motor and extend the wires.

    I notice the right-hand rod holders were missing screws. Added, but since those rods were also of the bad kind, I didn't move further on that.

    One of the first things to print would be more cable ties. I like a well-organized cable setup, and the printed parts only come with the bare minimum.

    Current state of the machine (which should get a name soon):






















    With that, since I won't have time to do more work the rest of the year, I will just wish you a Merry Christmas (or whichever) and a Gutes Rutsch.

    by Lars Clausen (noreply@blogger.com) at December 16, 2014 10:25 PM