This is a low poly remix of Webmaster Zero's gecko design
I used Meshmixer to make it low poly
I think everything looks cooler in low poly, especially if its 3d printed
Hope you enjoy!
This was an attempt to print the Enterprise NX-01 all at once by supporting the upper parts with built-in supports. However, this my first attempt at doing so, and I'm having trouble keeping the model sturdy enough so that it doesn't wobble while it's printed. This leads to a lot of defects in the nacelles.
So, consider this a work in progress; I might need to do a bit of rethinking on this.
This ant trap uses a bottle cap for easy clean up. Sure you could probably get away with just a bottle cap but this will help identify your traps and prevent accidental spillage
Simply place a bottle cap in the base and add which every poison you wish. I've used a sugar and borax (3:1) water mix with good results. Recipe is easy to find on the internet.
CAUTION that recipe is hazardous to people and pets so be mindful when placing.
At first you will see an increase in the number of ants. This is a good thing they are bringing the poison back to the nest. After a few days you will see less and less ants.
Check traps regularly when water evaporates add more of your mixture to the traps ants like the water too! Replace the bottle cap when it gets too gummed up, but hopefully by that time you will not see anymore ants.
Intended to be printed from ABS for an E3D Chimera, as a mount for your G2s Pro to get rid of the rubbish dual MK8 hotends.
Rotate it in your slicer so that the flat part is facing downward; for some reason Fusion 360 exports things rotated 90 degrees.
ABS ONLY. Nylon and PLA have too low of a glass transition temperature, so they'll warp. If you know how to print polycarbonate it'd be best, alternately you can print this as a template and cut one out of polycarbonate instead.
The new book by
And by the way, we will be teaching a four week beginner 3d printing class online starting June 5. Still time to sign up at www.nonscriptum.com/classes.
So recently i’ve finally gotten my homemade / homebuilt Lulzbot mini working. And it’s working pretty good. The most critical problem i was facing was that my 3d printer would start printing either too close to the heat bed (or if i added extra bed leveling washers) it would print too far away. This was a critical problem as the first few layers are the most important and if you can’t get you prints to stick to your print bed then the rest of the print will usually unstick and fail. Thanks to some helpful people on the Lulzbot forum i was able to adjust my z-offset to the correct height that worked for me.
The second issue is that recently i’ve noticed my large and tall prints failing miserably at a certain height and the filament not coming out thick enough and the top gets all cob-weby like a spider web, but worse. Apparently this is called “Heat Creep”. The problem in part may be caused by the tiny blower fan on the Lulzbot mini not providing enough cooling and heat slowly rising in the hot end until the filament actually melts too soon and cannot be extruded properly. This makes sense as the problem only occurs after a long time printing. So the logical step was to replace the tiny blower fan (or squirrel fan) with a larger fan that will do the job. The new Taz 6 has obviously taken that tiny fan into consideration and has changed it to a large 40mm fan.
Unfortunately the Taz 6 x-carriage and modifications are not a drop in replacement for the Lulzbot Mini i decided to make my own. This is what i came up with and it seems to work beautifully. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1587110
I have only tested this on HIPS so far, but it has eliminated the heat creep i was getting with HIPS. PLA apparently suffers more from heat creep problems than other filaments, but this mod will likely help with PLA heat creep issues as well.