Cherry picked Planet Reprap - A RepRap blog aggregator

March 28, 2017

New reprap images on Photobucket

Thingiverse - Newest Derivatives

E3D v6 40mm fan


Wider side walls than original(minimum of 2mm) and added m3 nut mounting instead of using the print walls.

by Nz_overclock at March 28, 2017 07:17 AM

Rear axle holder right and pinion gear for OpenRC Formula 1 car


A modified version of the real axle holder (right) and pinion gear to fit Propodrive 28-36s 2200kv motor.

by LuisDUgena at March 28, 2017 07:15 AM

Thingiverse - Newest Things

Transcend Drive Pro 220 Dashcam, adjustment mount


This mount is intended to connect to the standard suction mount the dashcam comes with, and to the camera itself. The purpose of the mount is to move the camera upwards to allow the user to hide it more effectively, for instance behind the rearview mirror of the car.

by Dyason at March 28, 2017 06:33 AM

Toilet Cap Holder


May be this model is not very esthetic, but it's very useful for repairing toilet cap holder. In my house it breaks often and I tried to fix it.

So, you need to have before printing:
— 2 х M5 pin with 40mm length;
— 2 х M8 bolt with length 80-90mm (depend of your toilet);
— 2 x M8 nuts.

What you need to print:
— 2 holders;
— 2 pins;
— 2 washers.

No supports needed. Good luck with repair:)

by Xakerbox at March 28, 2017 06:32 AM

Dust's Reprap

Core XY - failure

When I built my core XY one of the changes I had to make was to make it 2.85mm filament compatible. Since this is the size most of my filament is in.

The clone hot end "0.4mm E3D-V6 Metal 3D Printer Extrusion Head Exturder Nozzle With Fan" 
Has a 3mm option.

BUT...

When it arrived I was quite concerned that the PTFE tube was ID=3mm, but OD=4mm  Ie very thin walls.  But I decided to give it a go.

Sure enough half way threw a print the PTFE tube tore off at the entrance to the extrude push to fit connector. Removal of the PTFE tube from the connector was also impossible.

I have now replaced the PTFE with some nice thick OD=6mm tube.


The tube on the right is the original complete with torn off end

 Hot end with new 6mm PTFE tube

This wasn't as simple as you would hope. The 4mm tube extends down into the hotend some what, So I kept a small bit for that and drilled out some of the 6mm to ID=4mm. This happens inside the PTF connector so the 4mm tube isn't being stressed at all.

Only time will tell if this will last





by Dust (noreply@blogger.com) at March 28, 2017 02:50 AM

March 23, 2017

Tales of a modern life

Machining my own GH4/GH5 battery grip


I'm waiting for my pre-ordered Panasonic GH5 and am looking at different cages for it that are coming up.
Problem is... no cage has all the features I like and the ones announced now are terribly expensive.
We're walking >500€ for basically a piece of Aluminium.

So I'm testing the waters about making my own.

The plan 

I don't have a GH5 yet, but I have a second GH4 that has no cage yet.
So the idea is to make a cage for the GH4 first and then modify the design for the GH5.

Also I want one feature in there, that no current cage has:
I want a cage that works with the battery grip added. So I can rig up the camera and switch batteries from the side while the camera is recording.

However because the dimensions and ergonomics are difficult to get perfect, I'll make a conventional cage first and then create an alternative lower assembly that accomodates a battery grip.

MK1 

I took a 3D scan of a GH4, found that the dimensions are completely off and scaled it differently in X, Y and Z to fit a real GH4.
So here I am, 3D printing an oversimplified cage and fitting it to the camera to see where the dimensions of the 3D scan are off and I need to shift things around. Also this means I can hold it in my hand and see if there is any chance for the ergonomics to work out.

MK1
Result:
Overall a surprisingly good fit.
Some minor adjustments to the battery- and card-doors needed.
Grip needs to be slightly smaller to be comfortable when reaching for the record-button.
Planned on how to do the battery grip support and incorporate a rod-holder and Metabones support.

MK2

The second prototype only had minor issues with allowing the flip out screen to fully tilt, battery door, 2mm additional space for the flash,...

MK2 

MK3

The third prototype needs some minor tweaks at the battery door and has a few cutouts that are a few millimeter larger then they need to be.

MK4

 The fourth prototype finally has 1/4-20 UNC and 3/8 UNC cheeseplatet to mount equipment. It also features holes for the 2 registration pins that keep the camera aligned and has 1/4" and 3/8" holes in the bottom to mount it to a tripod.

MK5

The corners have been rounded and the registration holes in the bottom changed slightly.
This should be the last version before starting on a special configuration that supports battery grips.
To not add too many new pieces, it will probably not be an attachment but have different sides and a different bottom from the regular version. This requires more material but actually only 4 screws to change from one version to the other.
Okay, I messes up a meassurement on the bottoma and had to do another iteration.
Taking the opportunity to give the 1/4-20 UNC camera thread the proper 82° tapper, including 2 unused M3 threads for a possible wooden grip (requires a modified right side) and labeling the name of the camera type this is intended for. After all, the GH5 cage will look very similar.

PERFECT FIT!
1/4-20 UNC thread and both register-pins fit.
Battery door opens.
SD-Card door opens.
Flash unfolds.
Screen rotates fully in both dimensions.
All access panels open.
All buttons reachable.
Camera can be held normally and comfortably.
Lens release button easy to reach.

Next step:  Creating a second configuration for GH4+Battery Grip

BG1

I finished the very first alternative configuration of this design that is supposed to fit a GH4 + Battery grip.
Also....my GH5 has shipped.

I hope to print the BG1 prototype on Monday and check how well it fits.
If things go well I can start the adaptations for the GH5 right after the GH4+BatteryGrip version is considered finished.

Stay tuned....

more to come soon....

by Marcus Wolschon (noreply@blogger.com) at March 23, 2017 08:07 PM

Using a 3D touch probe in MACH3




I finally got my 3D touch probe!
Now I can finally probe
  • the exact center of my 4th axis (left+ride side in Y and probed height minus radius at the Y=0 position)
  • probe the A=0 position on my 4th axis be turning it until chuck #0 makes contact at a known probe location in X,Y,Z
  • check the orientation of non-conductive blocks of materials and rotate my work coordinate-system accordingly
  • probe the height of the top-side of non-conductive materials
  • check that I inserted a cylinder into the 4th axis straight
This also means that I can pause a long running job (when my weekend in the hobby workshop ends),
switch everything off, come back the next weekend and  home everything within 0,01mm to resume.


I just soldered on the connector (same connector I use for the existing tool-height probe) and have yet to test it in the YOOCNC6040.
It is normally closed but luckily my normally open tool height probe is modified to be kept high with an extra +5V line and gets pulled to GND on contact with the spindle. (The actual plan was to isolate the frame of the CNC and pull that to +5V. Then any metal to metal contact of the spindle to the machine would be an automatic E-Stop but I didn't get that to work due to the stepper casings being at GND and having conductive contact with the frame.)

Update (2017-03-23):
I finally soldered the last channels of the 5V power supply box for all end stops and probes.

Links

by Marcus Wolschon (noreply@blogger.com) at March 23, 2017 07:13 AM

March 22, 2017

The Hell Ya Beller

Adding support for Arch Panels in FreeCAD Path.

A lot of projects include multiple parts made from a single sheet of uniform material - like a sheet of plywood. This causes some trouble in a CAD/CAM application

  • You want to keep your overall model/assembly intact, but the build assembly isn't the same as the cutting layout.
  • You need to translate and rotate parts to maximize material usage
  • You want to group operations to minimize tool changes on the machine.

For a while, I've been promising that we would include a solution to this in FreeCAD Path and now we're finally getting to it thanks to facilities in the Arch workbench - Panels!

Arch Panels are designed for exactly this purpose - designing parts from uniform sheet stock. In Arch, you can define a panel object and then create a 'Panel Cut' to represent the 2D cut pattern for that part. These 2D cuts can then be aggregated into a 'Panel Sheet' for cutting.

Is that confusing? Then just watch the video. It'll make sense, trust me. And for good measure, we now have a post-processor for smoothieboard, an exporter for linuxcnc tooltables, and improved tool handling. So there ya go.

by Sliptonic at March 22, 2017 04:24 AM