Cherry picked Planet Reprap - A RepRap blog aggregator

May 30, 2016

New reprap images on Photobucket

Thingiverse - Newest Derivatives

Low Poly Gecko


This is a low poly remix of Webmaster Zero's gecko design
I used Meshmixer to make it low poly
I think everything looks cooler in low poly, especially if its 3d printed
Hope you enjoy!

by firefrogz at May 30, 2016 03:30 AM

Enterprise NX-01 with supports


This was an attempt to print the Enterprise NX-01 all at once by supporting the upper parts with built-in supports. However, this my first attempt at doing so, and I'm having trouble keeping the model sturdy enough so that it doesn't wobble while it's printed. This leads to a lot of defects in the nacelles.
So, consider this a work in progress; I might need to do a bit of rethinking on this.

by petronator at May 30, 2016 03:23 AM

Thingiverse - Newest Things

Bottle Cap Ant Trap


This ant trap uses a bottle cap for easy clean up. Sure you could probably get away with just a bottle cap but this will help identify your traps and prevent accidental spillage

Simply place a bottle cap in the base and add which every poison you wish. I've used a sugar and borax (3:1) water mix with good results. Recipe is easy to find on the internet.

CAUTION that recipe is hazardous to people and pets so be mindful when placing.

At first you will see an increase in the number of ants. This is a good thing they are bringing the poison back to the nest. After a few days you will see less and less ants.

Check traps regularly when water evaporates add more of your mixture to the traps ants like the water too! Replace the bottle cap when it gets too gummed up, but hopefully by that time you will not see anymore ants.

by Drelen at May 30, 2016 02:45 AM

E3D Chimera mount for Geeetech Rostock Mini G2s Pro


Intended to be printed from ABS for an E3D Chimera, as a mount for your G2s Pro to get rid of the rubbish dual MK8 hotends.

Rotate it in your slicer so that the flat part is facing downward; for some reason Fusion 360 exports things rotated 90 degrees.

ABS ONLY. Nylon and PLA have too low of a glass transition temperature, so they'll warp. If you know how to print polycarbonate it'd be best, alternately you can print this as a template and cut one out of polycarbonate instead.

by Seibah at May 30, 2016 02:43 AM

May 27, 2016

Public RSS-Feed of Whosa whatsis. Created with the PIXELMECHANICS 'GPlusRSS-Webtool' at http://gplusrss.com

Reshared post from Joan Horvath:

Original Post from Joan Horvath:

The new book by +Whosa whatsis and me,  "3D Printed Science Projects," has gotten a great start- thanks, everyone! Here's another one of the models from the botany chapter. This one prints (in pieces) without support to show how jungle plants optimize their use of what sunlight they manage to get. ‪#‎scientificmakers‬ 
And by the way, we will be teaching a four week beginner 3d printing class online starting June 5. Still time to sign up at www.nonscriptum.com/classes.

May 27, 2016 01:29 AM

May 26, 2016

Reprap development and further adventures in DIY 3D printing

Upgrades and printing with the BCN3D Sigma dual extruder 3D Printer

My update on using the BCN3D Sigma 3D Printer for the last 6 or so months.



Do check out the video for a more visual feast into the madness of my modifications :)


You can also watch it in HD over on my YouTube channel here (and please subscribe, thank you)

A few months back  Last year (2015), I posted about my first few weeks using the BCN3D Sigma 3D Printer, here is an update on some of the changes and how I have been getting along with the machine.

As I said in my previous video and blog post, the BCN3D Sigma is a really great 3D Printer. It has many of the key features people are looking for in a machine they need to produce 3D Models.

Because the Sigma is a fully built and tooled up machine, it's not really aimed at the low-end or to compete with the kit build market. That said, it's excellent value for money with the bonus of having dual independent print heads, it's a great 'production quality' desktop machine.

I have just now, in early 2016 spent my own hard earned cash on buying a Sigma, not something I do lightly. And I could not afford a brand new one, so it's actually second hand. I was very lucky someone in the UK wanted to sell it. (thank you so much for driving it to me, you know who you are, I am highly grateful and now use this machine every single day).


That's probably the best and most genuine endorsement I can give a machine. Spending my own money on a printer, now, when I already have a few is significant.




The Sigma is still the best built production machine I have used (so far) - finally on-par with my own custom 3D Printers I have built and still use over the many years of doing this.

I have done all the usual things with Sigma, printing fast and 'draft quality' to slow and fine layer models to examine the details that can be produced. I'm not so concerned with ultimate quality when 3D printing. I would much rather a fast and accurate, strong print using a fat nozzle.

All these dual colour pots were using 0.6mm nozzles and a fast print profile with 0.2mm layers.
The print time was under 5 hours for each one. The quality is not 'perfect' but more than good enough for kids to use and for 'practical' applications.


In fact I have a 5 hour rule, if I can't print it in under 5 hours, then I use a bigger nozzle, or lower quality or wait until the weekend (and then it may not happen). So for me, 3D printing is more about getting something that's accurate and strong, not ultimate quality.

Sigma can do quality, but with a change of nozzle size and pushing the speed, it also does fast too.

Dual printing is where this machine really stands out from the other 'dual extruder / dual nozzle' systems available. This is an area where I am most excited for FDM, Having useful models, and an ability to 'actually print almost anything' is a fundamental goal for desktop 3D Printing.

 Two ways to dual 3D print - Above bigger tool-change retractions and no purge tower.

 Or use a tower and avoid jamming up the hot-ends because of long retraction <<< Do this method!


Above is the Nervous System dual treefrog - a tricky one to dual 3D print. It was the second thing I printed on the new machine, right after the test calibration pattern (above). Both at 0.4mm nozzles, and a 0.2mm layer height, set to print fast (65mm/sec) - not ultra-fine quality, but a solid and fast 3D print in under 4 hours.


Like everything that's designed or configured for you, it's possible you will want to change or tweak things to make it easier for you to use every day. That's exactly what this update is about - my changes to the machine and what I have been printing for a few months.


Firstly I need total flexibility for spool sizes and all different types of coiled plastic. We don't quite yet have a universal spool size standard, or any sort of agreement on the ideal diameter of filament coils.



I found I could not fit 1Kg reels of filament inside the Sigma, they almost fit, and I even printed new spool adapters. But everything was just a little too tight fitting, and not easy to change out.



After some considerations, as this is a fully built machine that can't be taken apart. I opted for an external filament rack and to re-mount the bowden extruders outside of the machine. Sounds quite drastic, but it's a simple re-routing of the motors.

The upgrades were obviously 3D printed on the Sigma - and to keep everything as light as possible a painted wooden frame was built to take two spools at the back.

The other change was to provide more options for materials and nozzle sizes. The Sigma comes with 0.4mm brass nozzles fitted. If you want to print in filled materials or abrasive carbon fiber or glow-in-the-dark then you really need a hardened nozzle.


Sigma on the left and E3D V6 on the right


I was also finding that the second print head was starting to be used more for support materials, rather than a different colour. Dual colour prints are nice, but the second head is great for using as a different support material. And I found that a 0.6mm nozzle allowed me to print support materials faster and with more success.

I can now swap out nozzles for almost any size or type. I leave a 0.6mm on the left and a 0.4mm on the right. This way I can print fast or fine or with dual materials - very complex models.


On the prototype machine I added a simple strip of Kapton to catch stray 'noodles' still a good thing to do to any Sigma.


On the new Sigma, you can fit these 3D Printed stiffening supports, this helps the silicone strip wipe off any excess plastic, and reduces the chances of noodles being pulled out and onto your build platform.




I'm really happy with the Sigma, and I can't wait to hack it some more.

BCN3D Technologies tell me that they are about to fully release the entire machine and even all it's manufacturing secret's as a complete open-source package. (I'll link here when that's announced).

* EDIT - 26/05/2016 - BCN3D have released everything, check out the press release here

They seem very serious about the Open-Source route, and don't sound like they are holding anything back at all.

Thanks for reading - and watching (I do go into more detail about the changes in the video).

Until next time.

Rich.


by Richard Horne (noreply@blogger.com) at May 26, 2016 04:48 PM

May 25, 2016

julianh72's Blog of Interesting Stuff

Yes, people really do 3D CAD on Mobile devices!

I've been using OnShape https://www.onshape.com/ as my primary 3D modelling package for some time now - both for designing parts for my hobby 3D printing and laser cutting, and also for general work (engineering) applications.


You can check out my early quick review here: http://julianh72.blogspot.com.au/2015/08/affordable-free-3d-modelling-software-5.html - and the more I've used it, the more impressed I've been.

I use OnShape primarily via Chrome browser on a Windows laptop (work or home) or a Windows tablet or a Chromebook, but I also use it on my Android tablet (and it is also available for iPads). What surprises many people is that OnShape can truly be used for full-featured 3D modelling (not just viewing) on mobile devices.


OnShape have just released a blog post "YES, PEOPLE REALLY DO CAD ON MOBILE!" https://www.onshape.com/cad-blog/yes-people-users-really-do-cad-on-mobile?utm_source=hs_email&utm_medium=email&utm_content=29936753&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-_jJNrK2qf9-xSiJlTvoqBOoscIhi_lDT2Vjq5p3JUpel2rp7KPKmYUU2SwkCkRlqVDaBJJ5WUiwAwE5vgIpQKm9UIODA&_hsmi=29936753 which gives some actual statistics which demonstrate that people really are using OnShape Mobile for modelling and design, not just viewing. While browser use is an order of magnitude bigger than mobile use (as you would expect), it is interesting to note that the usage patterns mimic each other on both platforms, except on weekends and holiday periods, where mobile use sees proportionately less of a dip than browser use - indicating it is the "platform of choice" for many users when you are away from the office.


If you are looking for a capable low-cost (free!) 3D modelling package for your hobby use, you really need to check out OnShape, if you have not done so already!

by Julian Hardy (noreply@blogger.com) at May 25, 2016 11:50 PM

Andrew's Blog – Blogo De Andreo

Modding the Lulzbot Mini

So recently i’ve finally gotten my homemade / homebuilt Lulzbot mini working. And it’s working pretty good. The most critical problem i was facing was that my 3d printer would start printing either too close to the heat bed (or if i added extra bed leveling washers) it would print too far away. This was a critical problem as the first few layers are the most important and if you can’t get you prints to stick to your print bed then the rest of the print will usually unstick and fail. Thanks to some helpful people on the Lulzbot forum i was able to adjust my z-offset to the correct height that worked for me.

The second issue is that recently i’ve noticed my large and tall prints failing miserably at a certain height and the filament not coming out thick enough and the top gets all cob-weby like a spider web, but worse. Apparently this is called “Heat Creep”. The problem in part may be caused by the tiny blower fan on the Lulzbot mini not providing enough cooling and heat slowly rising in the hot end until the filament actually melts too soon and cannot be extruded properly. This makes sense as the problem only occurs after a long time printing. So the logical step was to replace the tiny blower fan (or squirrel fan) with a larger fan that will do the job. The new Taz 6 has obviously taken that tiny fan into consideration and has changed it to a large 40mm fan.

Unfortunately the Taz 6 x-carriage and modifications are not a drop in replacement for the Lulzbot Mini i decided to make my own. This is what i came up with and it seems to work beautifully. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1587110

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I have only tested this on HIPS so far, but it has eliminated the heat creep i was getting with HIPS. PLA apparently suffers more from heat creep problems than other filaments, but this mod will likely help with PLA heat creep issues as well.

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by keen101 at May 25, 2016 03:01 AM