Cherry picked Planet Reprap - A RepRap blog aggregator

October 25, 2016

New reprap images on Photobucket

Thingiverse - Newest Things

Dual Blower Fan Duct (Tevo Tarantula)

A simple, easy to print fan duct for Tevo Tarantula.

According to and, blower fan seems like the way to go, so I chose dual blower for evenly-distributed airflow (surround-style is rarely symmetric nor provides even air in practice) and medium nozzle open.

by supasorn at October 25, 2016 06:36 PM

Original Prusa MK2 Y Axis corner block replacement

This is a modified Y axis block front, drop in replacement.

usable with LCD

inspired by aaron alignment stick design

Work in progress

by changfrancis at October 25, 2016 06:36 PM

Thingiverse - Newest Derivatives

BQ Prusa i3 E3D Bowden

Hey all!

Had a BQ Prusa i3 laying around that never worked with the Witbox extruder. So I decided to modify something to make a Bowden setup.

You can use any extruder, but the one I included is just a mod of the Thingybot extruder. It uses a MK7 drive gear and 608 bearing.

To install the E3D -

Attach the body to the X carriage using two M3 20mm screws.

Place the E3D hot end in the mount

Put the top cover with 40mm fan mount on and screw it into the extruder body using two M3 16mm screws.

Attach the 30mm hot end fan on the side

Attach the 40mm part cooling fan on the front

For the extruder -

Using 3x M3 8mm screws attach the extruder body to the stepper motor

Align the MK7 drive gear to the filament hole

Attach the Bowden push fit connector

Take the idler, put the 608 bearing on it, then add the cap with a M3 12mm screw

Attach the idler to the extruder using a M3 16mm screw

Put a M3 nut into the hole by the filament inlet

Put a M3 16mm screw through the idler and into the nut you just placed

That's it! Just "hang" it like the spool holder that comes with the BQ i3.

Notes -

You can use the heater cartridge and thermistor from the Witbox hot end on the E3D so you dont need to rewire anything.

You can also splice the fan cables to the 30mm and 40mm fans to make installation easier.

That should be it, if anyone has any questions let me know!

by orangefurball at October 25, 2016 05:24 PM

Andrew's Blog – Blogo De Andreo

Colorado Jellyfish

I know this is an old blog post but this is soo cool that i just had to share it! Here’s hoping i can find and collect my own freshwater jellyfish someday!

More to Explore

by Katie Bowell, Curator of Cultural Interpretation

This past week, approximately 150 people in Rye, New Hampshire were stung by the a 40lb  Lion’s mane jellyfish (or “jelly,” which is the more appropriate zoological term) that washed up on shore. Lion’s mane jellies are the largest jelly species in the world, and the largest individual ever recorded was over 7 feet in diameter and had tentacles of 120 feet long. The individual who showed up in Rye was described as being the size of a trash can lid and when officials removed it from the water, some of its many tentacles broke off and continued to sting people who came into contact with them in the ocean (tentacles can remain “alive” for 3-4 days after a jelly dies).

Living in lovely, landlocked Colorado, you might think that jellies are one thing you don’t have to worry about encountering, but you’d…

View original post 318 more words

by keen101 at October 25, 2016 05:39 AM


Perpetual Motion

More than likely BS, but something to play around with one day.


by Andrew Falgout at October 25, 2016 03:13 AM

October 24, 2016

Trying to print on iMac with Cura

Trying to get things to work on my iMac. On Tim's advice, trying out Lulzbot Cura, and it does seem nicer, including pretty much all the parameters I want. It's a bit tricky seeing the support, only in Layers view mode do they appear, and even then only when sliding to the appropriate layers.

I ran into trouble connecting to the printer, but this page said FTDI drivers were needed. Installed those, and also added myself to the 'wheel' group. Still failing.

Same page said to run kextunload, but no:

$ sudo kextunload –b
Can't create –b.

Can't create

Running their script instead worked better, at least there was a change - the usbserial devices disappeared. Reinstalling the FTDI drives and un-reconnecting the printer did nothing. Restarting afterwards, at least Pronterface was able to connect, I don't know why Lulzbot Cura tries for a while then closes. I can of course have Lulzbot Cura create the gcode and print it using Pronterface, but that's clearly not a good long-term solution.

Looks like Lulzbot Cura doesn't support skirts, which is rather a pity, I've had skirts pick up extra filament or just get the filament well started.

Also curiously, when I make gcode with a brim in 'Cura and print using Pronterface, the print occasionally stops for a while. Didn't happen without the brim.

Could be caused by the extra-long USB cables I've had to use, but shortening the cables didn't help.

I also tried printing some test of a new extruder motor mount, from +nop head's sturdy e3d files. With Slic3r the support was giving me some problems, that was better with Cura, but the Sturdy variant of the e3d wades_block seems to be off a bit, leaving a solid layer across the hole for the hobbed bolt:

I can virtually drill out the hole, but I don't know if something else is off.

by Lars Clausen ( at October 24, 2016 07:07 AM

October 23, 2016


Arduino Sealed Case...

Arduino case (in the case shown for a Leonardo)

Arduino Case
An IP65 possibly to IP68 case for Arduino foot print PCB's

This is a bit of a tidy up post as I promised I would post these designs for the Greenpower project. There will be a follow up posts on the sensor cases and Arduino Mega case that we finally used, as well as the Raspberry Pi Web server case which links the vehicle telemetry to the clients web viewers used to monitor vehicle performance.

This unit was used in our Greenpower F24+ race car project (, as the prototype and test data logger. It is also used for general Arduino and PicAxe projects.
Sealing peas used for cable exist are AMP Supereal 1.5 peas Radio Spares ( RS Stock No. 314-1176 TE Connectivity Mfr. Part No. 281934-4 ( When fitting pea seals, ensure the holes are the correct sizes and lubricate with soap to permit insertion. Alternatively use your favourite silicone sealant in place of pea seals. To restrain the cable internally use a cable tie or similar.

This case ( without with the test USB access port ) has run in 4 races in the rain and been left out doors in a tool shed over the winter. When correctly printed the case is dust, spray and splash proof.

If you have poor or incorrect layer bonding or poor seam re-starts, consider spraying the case with a plastic filler or otherwise treating the surfaces for improved performance. As the volume of the interior is considerable there may be some minor pumping action through cables passing into the case if cable ends are not sealed.

The ends are printed separately to allow different features (sensors, indicators, switches cables etc) to be added or removed as necessary. Printing an additional slightly modified version of the centre section allows an Arduino Mega 256 to be housed using the same set of components.

Recommend stainless steel screws and nuts if the item is expected to get wet.
An elastomer bumper is included in the STL files which was used to protect the module ends. This optional item is not recommended where full sealing is required.

STEP files are included in a ZIP file to permit easier modification where needed
Note you should take your own steps to validate sealing integrity as printing quality can be so variable.


by Conseils ( at October 23, 2016 09:43 PM