Cherry picked Planet Reprap - A RepRap blog aggregator

July 21, 2017

New reprap images on Photobucket

DIY 3D Printer and Reprap

Best 3d printer_zpsuoctq7hr.jpg
DIY 3D Printer and Reprap - Best 3d printer_zpsuoctq7hr.jpg

We are one stop destination for cheap 3D printer, 3D printer kit, Reprap printers and DIY 3D printer. Read latest reviews and buy DIY 3D printer and kits.

by star133 at July 21, 2017 02:12 AM

Thingiverse - Newest Things

Delta style Nozzle caddy

just a simple holder to keep spare nozzles in.

by Cinpro at July 21, 2017 12:14 AM

Delta "cubes"

I made a simple tool for detecting when there may be an issue with one of the towers. This just helps to pin point the problem. I really just made it for myself. But I have been asked for it many times so I'm just putting it here. you will need to rotate it and correct the angle once its on its base as it is pointed too far to one side

by Cinpro at July 21, 2017 12:05 AM

July 20, 2017

Thingiverse - Newest Derivatives

Zodiac Guitar Picks

Guitar picks with each sign of the Roman zodiac.
Each pick has a hole to allow it to be worn as jewelry.

Edit: Made lines thicker and more uniform so as to be easier to discern.

by Studious_Gluteus at July 20, 2017 09:23 PM

CR-10 Compact Hot end block 30mm

Remixed from Begal

For E3D V6 (30mm)

Will update for BL Touch support shortly

Uses existing hardware

by loganhaupt at July 20, 2017 09:11 PM

July 17, 2017

La Grotte Du Barbu

Fabrication de manches pour limes avec des chutes de bois – Ep 191 – MancheBiGout

Et oui cette semaine, j’essaye d’utiliser des chutes de bois d’essence différentes pour me fabriquer des manches pour mon super stock de limes chopé sur LeBonCoin

Pas mal de petits fails, mais au final un résultat qui est plus satisfaisant pour moi et ma maîtrise merdique de la menuiserie


Pour nous contacter
l’email –
twitter –
facebook –
instragram –
La wishlist Amazon –

Abonnez vous à la chaîne et faites passer la barbitude autour de vous

Inspirez vous, faites des trucs et que la barbitude soit avec vous

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by babozor at July 17, 2017 09:05 PM

July 15, 2017

La Grotte Du Barbu

Fabrication d’un pied pour ma perceuse à colonne avec des matériaux de récup – Ep190 – PiedAPerceuse

Cette semaine, je me fabrique pour ma super perceuse à colonne Leman un pied, pour qu’elle soit à la bonne hauteur et puisse être utilisable dans mon atelier / salon…

Un petit fail dans ma première découpe, mais sinon une construction plutôt classique avec uniquement des matériaux récupérés sur divers projets à droite à gauche et avec un résultat solide et stable, pile poil ce qu’il me fallait


Pour nous contacter
l’email –
twitter –
facebook –
instragram –
La wishlist Amazon –

Abonnez vous à la chaîne et faites passer la barbitude autour de vous

Inspirez vous, faites des trucs et que la barbitude soit avec vous

Flattr this!

by babozor at July 15, 2017 09:05 PM

July 14, 2017

Buildlog.Net Blog

Coasty the Coaster Toaster


This is a just a silly little project that can only do one thing. It laser etches or cuts drink coasters.

I was interested in learning Grbl’s new laser features, so I bought a small laser module. We have a monthly-ish Hardware Happy Hour meetup in Chicago. We drink beer and show off our projects. My typical projects are big motion control/CNC stuff, so for the first few meetups, I could not bring anything. I challenged myself to design something interesting for each meetup. Here are my criteria…

  • Must fit in a commuter sized backpack.
  • Must be battery or USB powered.
  • Can only scare the bar staff a little.
  • Learn something new.


Most of my design choices were based on materials I had left over from other projects. The parts I needed to buy for this project were these…

  1. ($99) 3.5 watt / 2.5 watt continuous laser module with power supply
  2. ($26) Small 2 axis motion controller.
  3. ($9) A backlash resistant leadscrew nut. (small size/diameter was important)
  4. (($10 for 50) O-Rings for the drive wheels.



The enclosure is 3D printed in 2 parts. The chassis is quite complex, but prints easily without support. It should fit on most printers. It takes about 12 hours on my Taz 6. The second part is a simple hinged door.


The required width was hard too reduce too much.  You are stuck with the width of the coaster and the width of the laser module.  The beam is in the center of the module, so you need room for the rest of the laser module to fit within the width as it travels to the edges.

I tried the design with the motors inside the box with belts. Getting the motor pulley, the idler pulley and a belt attachment method into that minimum width was not working out well. I decided to use a Tr8-8 lead screw instead with the motor outside the case. A tr8-8 is pretty common and easy to buy. It is 8mm diameter it is 2 mm pitch with 4 starts (independent threads) so this will cause a travel of 8mm per turn.

The linear bearing uses (2) 8mm rods and 2 double wide ball bearings. The leadscrew attachment was a bit of a hack. I drilled a hole down the center of one end and epoxied it to the inserted motor shaft.


The Y axis uses feed rollers to move the coaster.  This allowed me to make the machine smaller in depth than the coaster. A 1″ O.D. x 1/8″ rubber oring is driven by a large axel. The coaster runs over some small bearings where it is pinched by the o-ring. The coaster slides over a large platform.  This allows it to drag along cutouts pieces pretty well.


The nice thing about limiting it to printing coasters is that you only need to deal with 2 axes. The focus length never changes. No Z provisions required.

Home Switches

Each axis has a home switch.  The Y home switch is triggered by the top coaster as it slides in.  The X home switch is triggered by an adjustable screw on the X carriage.


I used a super cheap 2 axis CNC controller called the EleksMaker Mana SE. It uses 2 stepstick stepper drivers and a Arduino Nano. Both of those items were included in the price. It is designed to run Grbl for simple pen plotters, egg bots and lasers. It can control the laser via PWM and also has a servo connector. The board is not open source, so it was a little tricky to figure some things out. I’ll do some future posts about all the details.

I also added 2 fans. The laser generates a bit of smoke while cutting the coasters.  The fans wisk it out the back.

I need to measure the current better, but the values below are a good estimate.  The controller has a switch on the 12V that turns almost everything off, but the Arduino will stay on while plugged into USB.  I typically turn off the 12V after each job. I want to make sure the laser never fires accidentally between jobs.

  1. 2 amps peak when cutting at full power
  2. 0.3 amps when idle.


I tried several things, but ultimately settled on Laser Grbl.  It is open source and quite simple. It is written in C#, so it is windows only. I was able to easily recompile it and try a few tweaks.

A full cut through job like the “Coasty COASTY” coaster takes about 4-5 minutes. I run at about 250mm/min for those. For bar use I think it is quicker just to do outline engraves.  I run at about 1000-1200 mm/min for those and they typically take less than a minute. Full solid engraves are pretty smoky and take a long time.


I have no idea if this is safe, so I supervise its use pretty closely.  The chassis and cover block direct viewing of the beam unless you really try to peer into some holes at sharp angles.  The vents on the door angle so you can’t see through them. There is always the chance the coaster could catch fire, but that is not a lot of fuel. The cover is not interlocked, but it does bolt shut. Most DIY lasers like this are just run in the open.


Here are some things I am thinking about.

  • Add another row of drive wheels on the other side of the laser.  This should increase the work area if the coaster transfers from one set to the other to get to the top and bottom edges. I would also like to reduce the diameter of them to make the machine a little smaller in depth.
  • Cover the electronics.  The electronics are a little vulnerable to damage and not quite ready to be tossed into a backpack.
  • Add a filter to reduce the smoke smell.  I bought a big sheet of carbon filter material. I would like to test it’s effectiveness.
  • I would like to try some new ideas for a belt driven X axis.  It would run faster and quieter. I think I could put the motor on the side like the Y motor. Currently drilling out the center of the TR8-8 leadscrew is requires a lathe.
  • When cutting through something the laser energy has to be blocked by something.  Right now there is a thin metal strip under the coaster where the beam goes. I would like to try moving the strip to the bottom of the device further away from the focal point.  The beam would eventually cut a thin  line through the enclosure until it hits the metal. The thinnest interruption in the base in best for dealing with cutout pieces. The beam will have some distance to diverge before bouncing off the metal.

by bdring at July 14, 2017 01:39 PM

July 09, 2017

The Hell Ya Beller