Cherry picked Planet Reprap - A RepRap blog aggregator

August 01, 2014

New reprap images on Photobucket

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Mendelmax 2.0 first print!

by turnymom at August 01, 2014 10:12 PM

Thingiverse - Newest Things

Thingiverse - Newest Derivatives

Standby seat belt alarm


Use this thing only when you setup the motor of your vehicle and the alarm of seat belt continues to play.
Use this thing when you have a bag on your passenger seat that sets off the "buckle your seat belt light".
Insert this in the seat belt plug and switch off the alarm.
ALERT! When you use your vehicle remember DON'T USE THIS THING! Use always the seat belt.

by masteruan at August 01, 2014 05:25 PM

ABS printable Escapement Spring for 3D printed mechanical Clock with Anchor Escapement


This is an update of downeym's Escapement Spring modification that is designed for printing with more flexible ABS. I found that the existing one was too floppy when not printed with PLA, so I thickened the spring section 2mm.

by piercet at August 01, 2014 05:21 PM

July 31, 2014

Digitalw00t

Milling Info

http://makezine.com/magazine/make-40/endmills/

by Andrew Falgout at July 31, 2014 03:18 PM

July 30, 2014

HydraRaptor

PLA pipe cleaner

Yesterday one of my machines stopped extruding ABS mid print. I immediately suspected the filament as faulty filament is my main source of unreliability these days, having eliminated other things like push fit connectors and wires that break.

I removed the hobbed bolt to clean it and found that I could not feed filament forward by hand but I could pull it back easily, a sign that the nozzle aperture was blocked by something. I spent a long time trying to clear the blockage with several attempts that failed. Here is the method that successfully cleared it in the end: -

I pushed the shank of a 0.4mm drill up the nozzle aperture while it was hot. That cleared the blockage enough to be able to extrude but the particle of contamination kept finding its way back into the aperture causing the plastic to come out in a flat turbulent ribbon instead of a cylinder. That made poor prints with rough surfaces and strings.

PLA has a useful property that you can heat it to a temperature between its glass transition and its melting point where it becomes a rubbery solid. When you pull it backwards it stretches and becomes thinner, so it peels away from the walls of the melt chamber and comes out in one piece. Anything in the melt chamber is pulled out with it leaving it completely empty and clean.

ABS does not have this property and is more like chewing gum above 105°C. It can be pulled back at around 130°C but it usually does not all come out because it is a super viscous liquid rather than an elastic solid.


Because of this I decided to flush out the ABS with some natural PLA. I did this at 240°C until it was extruding clear PLA,. then I cooled it to 80°C and pulled it out. This is how it looked: -


As you can see it stretches until the last bit comes away from the walls of the barrel and the shape of the end matches the cone leading to the nozzle. The problem is this did not get the particle blocking the nozzle because that was pressed into the aperture by the flow of PLA when I inserted it.

The final trick was to push a drill shank up the nozzle to force the contamination into the melt chamber before cooling it to 80°C. That ensured it was embedded in the PLA when I pulled it out. Here you can see the particle that caused all the trouble.


So to recap:
  1. Heat to extrusion temperature and pull out the filament being used.
  2. Use a 0.4mm drill shank to clear the aperture.
  3. Insert PLA (preferably natural so you can see the contamination) and flush through the remaining original filament. You may need to keep clearing the aperture with the drill shank.
  4. Cool the extruder to 80°C with the drill shank in place to ensure the nozzle is clear.
  5. Remove the drill and then pull out the PLA.
  6. Inspect the end that comes out to see the culprit contamination.
Of course if you are using PLA you can just do steps 4 and 5.

This method of cleaning with PLA is much better than using solvents or burning out nozzles that I often see recommended as it can be done in situ and doesn't risk damaging anything.

    by nop head (noreply@blogger.com) at July 30, 2014 09:02 PM

    DIY - Do It Yourself

    Colocando Fita de Leds na Prusa I3

    Boa Noite Pessoas!

    Conforme prometido, fiz o primeiro upgrade da minha Prusa I3 e documentei tudo pra vocês!

    PLA Radioativo

    Plástico PLA Verde Fluorescente com Leds Azuis.

     

     

    Você vai precisar de:

    - 1 Prusa i3, com mesa aquecida de 12v * ( caso seu modelo tenha 24v, não utilize esse tutorial )

    - Fitas de LED coloridas a gosto

    - Tesoura, estanho, ferro de solda, fio paralelo fino, multimetro e termo-retrátil.

    o Primeiro Lugar que coloquei leds foi na mesa aquecida, Vermelhos é Claro! E coloquei na alimentação da mesa aquecida, assim, ela liga somente quando a mesa aquecida estiver ativa, e é um bom lembrete de que a mesa está quente!

    Desmonte a mesa aquecida, e encontre o positivo e negativo da alimentação da sua mesa, com a ajuda de um multimetro, e marque com uma caneta e já solde um conector de sua preferência ( usei Conectores JST vermelhos de aeromodelismo ).

    conector na alimentacao

    Positivo e Negativo Marcados em Verde – Clique para dar zoom.

    Agora vamos ao suporte da mesa aquecida, verifique o tamanho e a distribuição das fitas de led, e corte nas linhas demarcadas com uma tesoura.

    mesa desmontada

    Encontre a melhor distribuição no suporte em X – Parte de baixo da mesa.

    Solde os positivos e negativos da fita de led nos fios paralelos e use um pedaço de termo retrátil para acabamento.

    Solda Fita de Led

    Solda do fio na fita de led em detalhes.

    Remova a proteção do adesivo na parte de trás da fita e cole de acordo com seu layout.

    Soldando a cadeia de fitas

    Respeite sempre o Negativo e o Positivo e vá ligando uma fita a outra e lembre de deixar uma fita com o conector para ligar na alimentação.

    Depois de tudo soldado, você deve ter algo parecido com o layout abaixo, agora basta ligar os conectores e montar a mesa novamente.

    Soldagem finalizada

    Leds devidamente soldados.

    Caso, algum ramo não acenda, não se preocupe, basta inverter os fios daquele ramo, leds não queimarão se ligados invertidos. Se você tiver uma prusa de acrílico, pode colocar uns leds no topo dela também, basta cortar uma fita longa o suficiente e pegar alimentação de 12V diretamente da fonte.

    Dupla Face em cima da Prusa

    Cole a fita no topo da Prusa com a ajuda de fita dupla face 3M

    Coloquei Leds Azuis no topo da minha Prusa I3, segue foto do teste final.

    Teste dos Leds

    Teste final do upgrade de leds.

     

    Bom, chegamos ao fim desse tutorial simples que deixa sua máquina com um visual fantástico.

    Abraço e até o próximo!

    -Antonio Santos


    by moraesgyn at July 30, 2014 12:48 AM

    July 29, 2014

    Public RSS-Feed of Whosa whatsis. Created with the PIXELMECHANICS 'GPlusRSS-Webtool' at http://gplusrss.com

    If the guys at Intentional3d hadn't already done a great teardown, I would be really tempted to buy ...

    If the guys at Intentional3d hadn't already done a great teardown, I would be really tempted to buy one just so that I could tear it apart (literally, then figuratively). Interesting to note that they list the one for the Z18 separately, even though they use the exact same pictures (in reverse order) on the two product pages.

    July 29, 2014 09:44 PM