Planet Reprap - A RepRap blog aggregator

May 19, 2012

Giles Bathgate

Turkey 2012

(Note: This is a work in progress see Holidays)

  • Monday – Traveling – Beer
  • Tuesday – Jeep Safari – Gourge walk – Rubber rings – Trout – Mudbath – Petrol Pool
  • Wednesday – Quad biking – Mese and BBQ chicken – Water slide – Turkish bath – Sunset Cruise
  • Thursday – Canoeing – BBQ - Karaoke – Dancing on Bar
  • Friday – Boat Trip – Sunbathing – Back flips – Fishing – Feeling ropey
  • Saturday – Hiking – Chicken Baguettes – Blue lagoon – Bartering – Dinner still mooing.
  • Sunday – Paragliding – Shopping
  • Monday – Traveling home

by Giles Bathgate at May 19, 2012 10:06 PM

Thingiverse - Newest Things

Skull and Crossbones Coin


Planning to make some of these for my children with gold filament from faberdashery.co.uk/

by hindessm at May 19, 2012 09:06 PM

Ducky Swimming


Duck on a Duck Pond that doesn't require support material for the beak. I also sliced the bottom to make it look like it was on a pond. The original Ducky's beak was too long to print without support material, so I got out my digital hammer and pounded it a bit (the Stl file shows it too).

by beekeeper at May 19, 2012 08:57 PM

Reprap Forums - RepRap en Español

Potenciémetro Pololu (no replies)

Buenas, acá otra pregunta.

Tengo pololus A4988 y necesito configurarlo.

Según la sección de la sanguinololu, aparece una formulita básica para cuadrar el potenciómetro midiendo el Vref basándonos en el consumo de corriente del motor paso a paso.

Vref= I x 0.7 x 0.4

Pero tengo una duda.
Físicamente, qué significa que mi Vref sea muy bajito o muy grande?.

Como lo entiendo ahora, es que si la corriente es muy muy bajita (supongamos que tiende a 0) entonces mi Vref es 0, lo que significa que no hay paso de corriente a mis motores. Lo que pasa es que dañé un pololu por que coloqué el Vref muy bajito y estaba alimentando un motor paso de 5V y 1.5A.

Gracias

by pa_mendel at May 19, 2012 08:03 PM

Giles Bathgate

Holidays

I like to write up my holidays so that I can look back and remember what I did, trouble is I usually take so long trying to capture everything that I end up not posting them at all. I have drafts for several Holidays that have been sitting there for years. I have decided that I am just going to post what I have written and improve the post at a later date.

by Giles Bathgate at May 19, 2012 05:17 PM

GuruBlog : Articles about 3d

blender curve experiments - curve from mesh

The curve for this part of my blender curve experiments was generated form an icosphere by pressing alt-c and choosing "curve from mesh"

you can download the blend file here

curves from mesh

by Nikolaus Gradwohl at May 19, 2012 04:00 PM

BuggerIT

Raspberry Pi First Impressions


It's my Pi!
The long wait is over and I finally have my hands on an actual Raspberry Pi. Initial impressions was that I'm really nervous about getting this protected and supported in a case. It's no more vulnerable to abuse than any other PCB, but a case will give me some peace of mind.
Getting the SD card was easier than I thought it would be, and the instructions at http;//raspberrypi.org/downloads were clear and easy to follow. One caveat, however: they don't explain that the partitions need to be adjusted after you dd (the command for copying the image onto the SD card) the image onto the card. It gives you a filesystem partition of about 1.7 GB and if you have a 4GB card, a bunch of it is going unused if you don't fix it. I used gparted on an Ubuntu computer to move the swap partition to the end of the unallocated space and then grow the filesystem partition to fit. I'm pretty sure it would be a bad idea to change the start point of the filesystem partition, and I didn't. 
It was a little dicey on first boot. I was a little dissapointed because it didn't sync up with my plasma TV via HDMI right away. I got some horizontal lines going across the screen. Information to help me troubleshoot this issue is hard to find, and the search function on the Raspberry Pi forums is, as one element14 user put it, "about as useful as a fish on a bicycle." I punted and switched over to the RCA output and that was no problem. Then I tried HDMI on the presentation projector, and that was fine too. 
Getting the audio to work was a small saga, which I can not now relate because the file containing my notes are on the Raspberry Pi.
I have two more units on order with element14, which I'm happy to see both have delivery dates now. This first one was from England through RS Components. I'll have it a whole month before the first one from Newark element14 gets here. I registered interest with RS in the first hour of the announcement, and at element14 about 9 hours later. Not sure how that 9 hours really accounts for a month's worth of delay. I suspect things are just especially slow at element14. 

This is a repost of my article on WixsonIT. Follow updates there.

by Kevin Wixson (noreply@blogger.com) at May 19, 2012 02:30 PM

MakerBot » Blog

Makerbot & Miniatures: Common Sizes & Playsets

Furniture and architecture elements are common subjects in many miniature genres.  This week we’ll learn about how to use common sizes to create cohesiveness in a scale model, and consider how these rules change when working on a playset.  Measurements of real objects are great source material for modeling, but if you’re working off of photographs, or designing something from scratch, it’s helpful to know typical measurements of a variety of common objects.

Common Sizes

Width and depth vary, but the height of common furniture pieces is fairly constant.  Online catalogs are a great source for photos that are accompanied by dimensions.

Building code and human proportions have changed over the centuries.  Common architectural dimensions like door width and railing height are typically wider and higher in modern buildings than in older architecture.

Considerations for Playsets

If you’re working on a toy, playset, or miniature without human figures, the rules change.  Objects in the real world are perfectly suited for human beings, but if your character has a bulky helmet like a MakerBot astronaut, four legs like a My Little Pony, or odd proportions like a Lego Minifig, you need to make up your own rules.  Start by comparing your character to a six foot tall human in the scale of your choice.

A MakerBot astronaut might look a lot like a person at first glance.  The astronaut is almost exactly 6′ tall in scale, but compared to a human being, there are some definite differences.  The helmet is large, his shoulders are wide, and the jet pack will make sitting down tough.  Make the same comparison with the character in your playset.  Based on what you discover, make up your own rules and measurements for the world you are creating.  Perhaps your doorways will be shorter to accommodate a stout character, or chair seats will be extra wide to accommodate a four-legged creature.  Make note of the rules you establish, so you can keep your measurements consistent throughout your project.

Example Project: The Control Room

When I was working on the Rocket Ship Playsets, there were several factors to consider.  I was working in 1:18 scale.  I decided to work directly in scale so I had better control over the details, and more easily share my design files.  I wanted to create designs that had nearly real world proportions, but accommodated the astronaut’s dimensions.

For each key measurement, I translated a common height measurement into 1:18 scale and the metric system using the charts I introduced in last week’s post.  Here are some things I considered.

The Navigation Console:  I decided the console would be counter height, at 36″, which translates to approximately 51mm in scale.  I also made sure the astronauts arms would reach and rest near the steering wheel.  I made the steering wheel big enough to accommodate one of Tbuser’s pin connectors.

The Chair:  I decided the chair should have a typical seat height of 18″, which translates to approximately 25mm in scale.  I expanded the seat width and depth, because the astronaut is wider than a typical human.  He also has a jet pack on his back, so I lowered the seat back so he could balance on the chair.

The Desk: Usually a desk would be 30″ high, which translates to 42mm in scale.  Unfortunately, the astronauts legs wouldn’t fit comfortabely under the desk at this height, so I raised it a few millimeters to 45mm tall.

Other considerations included the dimensions of the top room of the rocket, including the diameter of the room and the angle of the walls.

Wrap Up

Common heights are a good place to start.  These rules help maintain consistency across your designs so your miniature looks cohesive.  Make a decision when you start about how accurately your scale model reflects the real world.  Some modelers pride themselves on strict reproduction, but some projects require you to break the rules and establish your own reality.

Be sure to check back next week for the next post in this series!

Kacie Hultgren is a scenic designer in New York City using MakerBot 3D printers to explore her craft.  You can find her on Thingiverse under the handle PrettySmallThings.  Visit her online shop at www.prettysmallthings.com.

 

by PrettySmallThings at May 19, 2012 01:41 PM

Tony's Blog

Rocket Launcher Complete



Visit Tagbits to see the full range of tagger products described in this blog.

I've finally completed the rocket launcher build. I stuck a sight on top and took some pics. Going to pass it on to Steve now for painting and the installation of the Milestag electronics.





by Tony (noreply@blogger.com) at May 19, 2012 12:21 PM

rapman-education's posterous

Unplugged... iPad stand

Over the last week I have been introducing students to some iPad apps for 3D printing and laser cutting. To do this effectively I have been using our digital projector and a VGA to Apple dock connector cable (unfortunately I don't have access to apple tv) ... But it became more and more frustrating when the iPad moved on the table and the dock connector kept falling out... Note to self, I must get a longer VGA cable! But in the meantime I need another solution. So that's why I've 3D printed a stand for my iPad. Maybe that will give me a more stable platform to work from and help prevent the cable from being pulled out... I'll give it a try next week!

Being in a bit of a rush to get things done I didn't have time to design the stand myself so after a browse on Thingiverse I found this one ... So thanks to "Hobie" whose design can be found at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing23225

Permalink | Leave a comment  »

May 19, 2012 11:04 AM

Recent Uploads tagged reprap

vise on printer

flughafen posted a photo:

vise on printer

huxley 14x14cm printbead still is big enough for nearly anything ;)

by flughafen at May 19, 2012 08:41 AM

コメを噛め

CNCフライスでプリント基板製作講座/その8

第八回『ドリルで穴あけ』 実際にCNCとG-CODEで加工を始めましょう。まずは穴開けからです。 パターン堀りとドリル穴のどっちが先かは特に論ずるほどの事は無いのですが、パターンを掘った後の銅箔は非常に細く剥離しやすいため「後ドリル」はなんだか怖くて「先ドリル」にしています。 ■ 穴の深さと捨て板 CNCフライスでの穴開けは、刃を回転させた状態で Z軸を下方向(素材にめり込む方向)へ移動させることで行います。 素材の表面がゼロ地点な訳ですから、穴を掘り進めたい深さだけ Z軸を移動させることとなります。 角形のエンドミルならば掘り下げた距離がそのまま穴の深さになるので、板の厚みと同じ数値掘り下げるでも穴を空けることができます。ですが、一般的なドリル刃は先端がとがったV字になっているため板の厚みと同じだけ掘り下げても穴が貫通しない事になります。 そのため、ドリルで穴を空けるためには板の厚さより多く掘り下げて意図的に貫通させてやる必要があるのです。 私が 1.6mm のプリント基板に穴を空けるときはいつも 2.0mm ほどの掘り下げ量に設定しています。 それだけ掘り下げて貫通させるということは素材の下もある程度掘るということになります。なので、加工時には必ず捨て板が必要になるわけです。 ■ ツールごとに穴あけ 個人用の卓上フライスでは「自動ツールチェンジャー」なる便利なモノは搭載されていませんから、加工内容によって刃を取り替えてやる必要があります。 Gynostemma ではドリル径毎に別々の G-Code を出力しますので、ドリル刃をセットして G-Code を読み込ませ加工、次のドリル刃をセットして G-Code を読み込ませ加工、といった作業を繰り返してやる手順となります。 刃を交換したら必ず Z軸のゼロ点出しを行うことを忘れないでください。 これを忘れてしまうと、素材にめり込んだ状態のまま移動しようとしたりして素材だけで無く刃もおってしまうことになります。 これまでに何本折ったことか……。 ■ ねじ穴はどうするか ねじ穴やパーツの固定穴で M3 や M2 といった大きな穴が必要になるときがあります。 2.2mm や 3.2mm といったドリル刃を用意すれば良いのですが、フライス用のドリル刃は高価で入手法も限られています。 ある程度大きな穴であれば以下のどちらかの方法で空けるのが良いでしょう。 一旦 1.0mm 程度の細いドリル刃で穴を空けておき、後から手作業でドリルして目的径の穴にする 1.0mm とか適度な幅のエンドミルで円を描いて目的径の穴にする CNCフライスの作業っぽいのは後者の方ですが、穴が少ない場合は前者の方が簡単で手っ取り早いときもあります。 エンドミルで穴をあけるのは外周切り抜きの時に一緒にやると良いでしょう。

by rerofumi at May 19, 2012 05:10 AM

thingiverse Google Group

Re: [thingiverse] Re: Akiko

Here's the .gcode for an easier print with the model at 7.5cm tall with a
layer height of 0.2mm (using Replicator machine drivers).
[link]. The
bed temp is set at 30C and the nozzle at 200C. You'll want to edit those
lines if you want to print in ABS.

by Travis Driscoll (travis.drisc...@gmail.com) at May 19, 2012 04:18 AM

Recent Uploads tagged reprap

thingiverse Google Group

Re: [MakerBot] Akiko

Yeah. It was me. Sorry to get people excited and then yank it.

I acquired permission to publish derivatives of the character morphs,
textures and props, belonging to Liscar Scott, some time go. Today,
someone pointed out that I probably need to separately get distribution
permission for the base model to which those morphs and props are applied,

by Travis Driscoll (travis.drisc...@gmail.com) at May 19, 2012 02:38 AM

May 18, 2012

Thingiverse - Newest Derivatives

Huxley feet filament holder quick release mod


This is a modification to the Huxley feet filament holder by AndrewCraigie.

It allows you to quickly and easily remove the filament holder from the frame without messing around with nuts and washers (if like me you have fitted extra nuts to keep things in place) so you can more easily load new filament.

Refitting is quick and easy and the filament holder is retained securely with a printed face plate and wing nuts.

by MarkBenson at May 18, 2012 09:27 PM

Ricks Lower Vertex w/ feet for MendelMax 1.5


A replacement lower vertex with feet for PSU clearence with original Y-Rod mounts.

by jib at May 18, 2012 08:56 PM

MakerBot » Blog

Find Us At Maker Faire: Maps

Step right up!

The MakerBot booth at Maker Faire Bay Area 2012 is taking shape. For all the updates on where we are and what we’re doing, watch our twitter @makerbot. There will be lots of reasons to keep an eye on us tomorrow, if you catch my drift (…prizes!).

If you are headed down to the San Mateo Event Center, I’ve doctored some maps to help you find us.

 

 

We’ve already gotten some visits from other Makers who are setting up today, including the MakerBot superfan Schuyler St. Leger.

Maker Schuyler St. Leger gets an early look at the Bot Farm

Banners are being unrolled:

And the dance floor is installed:

 

We’re almost ready to roll. Come join us!

 

by Andrew at May 18, 2012 08:12 PM

Reprap Forums - RepRap en Español

impresora 3D con tarjeta Gen6 no consigo arrancarla (21 replies)

tengo problemas de comunicacion entre la tarjeta de la impresora y el puerto usb del pc que tengo con windows xp servipack 3.
creo que el sistema no reconoce la maquina ni quiere conectar pero no se por que motivo , me gustaria un poco de ayuda ya que soy nuevo en este campo.

by hector at May 18, 2012 05:18 PM

Uploads from arcol.hu

Arcol blog

New: Grooved 608 bearings

This is the new 608 grooved bearing:

It has an awesome half circle groove which is a perfect fit for the filament.
I use a normal 608 bearing, so it fits to a Wade style filament pusher exactly, like
the Greg's accessible extruder body (thing:8252). Here is a closeup picture:

Here is how the filament would look like on the bearing:

And also a picture with the hyena:

Oh wait, I can do a better photo, to see from the front (notice the match for frame of reference):

Why is it an awesome thing to have?

  • It prevents filament twisting
  • It is a guide in itself, Accessible Greg's extruder, needs one I believe, at least for me its needed. (accidents happen:-(

Im collecting ideas here. Im recently trying out many methods to raise funds to manufacture the newest gadget for 3D printing world:)

Well, this small improvement may not deserve a full campaign, like the awesome mini hyena, but still what do you think what would be an adequate price for it?

If you have a thought about pricing, or more what price is it worth for you, just put it in the comment. If we can agree on a sane pricing, I will list at that price on the webshop:)

Lets do it folks!

Update:
Some of you were wondering how much flesh rest at the bottom of the groove.
So I destroyed one for ya:)

And here is a better view from the front:

Im not worried about wall thickness here, it is imho pretty strong still.
If you have any other question just shoot it in the comments:)

by Laszlo at May 18, 2012 11:45 AM

Recent Uploads tagged makerbot

complete tower!

pix23 posted a photo:

complete tower!

acetone wiped kapton FTW

by pix23 at May 18, 2012 03:12 AM

May 17, 2012

What's design ?

FabManager week's lessons #2

Deux trucs utiles pour cette deuxième "leçon" que j'avais oublié de publier l'autre jour... :) 1. Comment nettoyer la plaque du laser sans s'embêter Les lingettes bébé ça marche super bien (trouvé quelque part dans le forum de hpc-laserscript) Et le faire régulièrement (une fois par semaine ou plus selon l'activité) évitera de devoir un jour gratter 6 mois de résidus à la dremel et au

by Emmanuel Gilloz - Wat (noreply@blogger.com) at May 17, 2012 10:14 PM

Open Manufacturing Google Group

Re: Global Warming: The Ultimate Maker Project

Please feel free to repost if you think others might be interest. (sorry for the delay in reply. A lot of correspondence to catch up on lately)

Eric Hunting
erichunt...@gmail.com

by Eric Hunting (erichunt...@gmail.com) at May 17, 2012 03:51 PM

Reprap development and further adventures in DIY 3D printing

PLA Scrap-ART

Just a quick one for fun-

Turn your worthless PLA scrap into unique works of art :)


You will need -

An oven
Baking tray
Aluminium foil
Scrap bits of PLA and any failed prints
Beer - (to help with artistic inspiration)

Lay the Aluminium foil on the tray and place your largest scrap parts onto it, don't space them too much apart as they will produce a smaller pool of plastic than you would think.

Optionally use some filament to make a round or shaped outer ring to keep all the plastic in if you want a nice shape. (PLA Pizza Anyone?)

Pop it in the oven, heat up to 210 Degrees C for about 15 mins

Then scatter on the smaller parts and heat at whatever temperature you like - 160 Degrees will make things go soft and still keep some shape of what they once were.

It's also quite interesting to throw in some ABS parts as that shrink, distort and go soft creating a more 3D sculpture.


Keep an eye on the cooking, and remove when you have the desired effect, leave to cool for a few mins and then you can trim the foil and PLA to size (wear oven gloves, if you handle it HOT!) you can form it around shapes, bottles, plates etc. or cut out butterfly shapes if you like. You should have about 5 mins cutting time, or pop it back in the oven to make it soft again.

I hope some of you try it, it's good fun and you may just make a masterpiece.

Before (Take it out of the bag!)


I'm calling my two first attempts -

After - Named 'April-12' as this was all my failed plastic in April of this year.



More very soon,

Rich.

by RichRap (noreply@blogger.com) at May 17, 2012 12:37 PM

GuruBlog : Articles about 3d

blender curve experiment - rail

with this blender curve experiment I wanted to test if a curve can act as a trac and be extruded at the same time

you can download the blend file here

rail

by Nikolaus Gradwohl at May 17, 2012 08:50 AM

May 16, 2012

New makerbot images on Photobucket

IMAG0221.jpg

IMAG0221.jpg
IMAG0221.jpg

Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App

by Tenacious221 at May 16, 2012 06:25 PM

IMAG0220.jpg

IMAG0220.jpg
IMAG0220.jpg

Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App

by Tenacious221 at May 16, 2012 06:25 PM

3D printing

10ohms litte stepper with 30:1 gearbox working

Today i received a package totaly unexpected... my 5 motors arrived.. specially made with 10 ohms... and here its working youtube movie

by Ed (noreply@blogger.com) at May 16, 2012 02:57 PM

May 15, 2012

The Brokentoaster Blog

The Raspberry Pi has arrived!

A Raspberry Pi in its freshly printed case

Raspberry Pi in its printed case

After months of anticipation my Raspberry Pi (RasPi) arrived last week. So I spent a little bit of time putting it through its paces. After waiting for the last couple of months I had a short list of things I wanted to test immediately:

Operating System

First order of business was to boot up and try out the various distributions currently offered. On first boot I was a little disappointed to find the RasPi had a few issues with my SD card. When booting the Debian distribution I saw lots of errors when booting. The errors were “mmc0: Too large timeout requested for CMD38!” which I believe are to do with the time the card takes to erase blocks. The card was one I bought very cheaply at a market when I was on holiday in Italy a few years ago so I wasn’t that surprised to see it fail. When I switched to a newer card it behaved normally and the errors disappeared. The SD card images are available from the Raspbery Pi downloads page via bit-torrent.

Debian “Squeeze”

This is the recommended install and comes with an X-Windows GUI using a fast, light-weight desktop environment (called LXDE). The image booted into the standard text mode login prompt. After logging in I started the GUI by typing startx. I was a little surprised to find the ssh server not running by default but that was easily fixed. As I don’t have any HD TVs around, the composite video output works fine but its not ideal to do command-line work. By starting up ssh I’m able to login and develop on the RasPi using my laptop or other computer.

To start the ssh server for the current session you can type the following into the command prompt via a USB keyboard:

sudo service ssh start

To ensure this service is started every time the RasPi is powered up type the following:

sudo update-rc.d -f ssh defaults 20

I also installed a couple of utilities for later testing out the RasPi:

sudo apt-get install screen
sudo apt-get install minicom

Other than the ssh daemon not being run at boot and having to login and manually start the GUI this distribution behaved as I expected. It’s standard Debian and behaves as such, being able to apt-get anything I tried from the repositories without problems.

Arch Linux ARM

I’ve not worked with this distribution before so didn’t do much more than boot up and see what was installed. As expected this booted into text mode as there is no GUI installed at all. As ssh was running and the Ethernet interface was working out of the box I was able to log in remotely and poke about without any problems.

This is a very basic install, without even another user other than root. I like this cut down system as it seemed very fast with a low memory (both RAM and SD card) footprint. It looks like it will be a good starting point for an embedded server project. Having no experience with the pacman package management system I didn’t investigate very much at all, but think I think I will have another look at this distribution in the near future.

QtonPi

The QtonPi image was the largest of the three images to download, but that is because as well as an image for the SD card it also contains the cross-compilers needed to develop for embedded Qt on ARM via your standard x86 Linux machine. In addition to the compilers and Qt libraries it also contains tools for making new SD card images.

This image is based on Fedora 14 and booted into the console as with the previous two images. This distribution also didn’t have an ssh server running by default. To get ssh working on I needed to bring up the ethernet interface by typing:

ifup eth0

After getting this sorted I was able to ssh into the RasPi. To ensure this happens every boot I edited the file /etc/sysconfic/network-scripts/ifcfg-eth0, changing the ONBOOT option to YES:

ONBOOT=YES

I also changed my timezone by doing the following:

mv  /etc/locatime  /etc/locatime.original
ln -sf /usr/share/zoneinfo/Europe/London /etc/locatime

This is helpful when looking through logs or trying to figure out what files you just changed.

Like the Arch Linux image previously mentioned this distribution also had no X-Windows GUI installed. This image is designed to use the Qt libraries to draw direct to the framebuffer. This is great for embedded systems as you don't have the overhead of a full X-Windows installation.

After following the QtonPi "getting started" instructions from here I could not get the Qt5 "Hello World" example to do any more than produce a white screen. Poking about the system I found some examples already on the card. Some of these "segfaulted" when run while others appeared to have the framebuffer off-centre and while displaying a little text, would not operate as intended.

The workflow for this project seems very nice and well thought through. Developing on the host and then automatically running on the target seemed very slick from within the QtCreator IDE. I look forward to working with it as the Qt5 platform matures.

NOTE: the QtonPi wiki pages seem to be moving about so here is a link to the Google cache version of instructions I followed.

An Enclosure

The second order of business now that I had an operating system was to get a case printed. I chose v12 of "thing" 16104 with the large Raspberry Pi themed ventilation holes. It printed okay but it took a couple of attempts with slic3r to get it to slice the thin walls correctly.

I also needed to move a couple of the connectors to make things fit nicely. I did this the old fashioned way with a file and knife but altering the OpenSCAD model looks pretty straight forward, so I'll probably do that before I print more cases for other people.

USB Serial Drivers

Third on my hit list was to check the drivers are present to talk to my RepRap 3D printer and other serial bits and pieces I have lying about. Both prolific USB to serial (PL2303) and FTDI seem to work fine. I didn't test the devices thoroughly, I simply noted that the drivers was installed and new /dev/ttyUSBx device was created when I plugged them in. I'll probably look at using the GPIO to control my RepRap and other electronics directly but for the immediate future, serial comms to an Arduino will do just fine.

General Purpose I/O (GPIO)

Last on my list was GPIO. I would like to use the RasPi as a real-time controller in embedded systems so I am quite curious to see if I can do anything useful with the GPIO. Later I plan to use it to drive the RepRap directly so I can repurpose my Linux machine in the workshop to do greater things without interrupting the printing process.

While using the information from http://elinux.org/Rpi_Low-level_peripherals I wasn't able to get anything to happen on the GPIO but as this was a late night investigation I'll assume there was something simple I overlooked.

by Nick at May 15, 2012 08:09 PM

iFeel beta

2Printbeta feat. Richrap

For all who don't want to read the whole blogpost: Watch this video (link).



----------------------------------------------

At the beginning of this year we made experiments with paste extrusion.
First we tried it with a big syringe extruder connected to a bowden cable.
But the bowden cable was not the right decision.
Most power gets losts inside this bowden cable and though the paste inside has to be very fluid to get through.

Even bigger transmisson doesn't solve the problem: The syringe also has it's limits and may burst by the pressure.

So time passed and we dropped this project because the new 3D printer wallace arised.

A while ago Richrap posted it's genius solution for paste extrusion: The universal Paste Extruder for 3D printers



This approach seemd to work, so we made some research ourselves.
The mechanism is very simple. A timing belt is used to squeeze a syringe. The power is boosted by a transmission.

The problem: Richraps model is non-parametric. It only fits to 10 mm syringes.

So we decided to improve this idea by creating a parametric version of a syringe extruder.
We've got plenty of 20ml syringes in stock, so we made it suitable for those syringes.

2Printbeta proudly presents: A heavy duty universal syringe extruder



Because 20ml syringes are much harder to extrude than 10ml syringes, we had to change the tramsission of the gears.
We added another gear to get enough torque.



The prototype is very gigantic but works perfect.

Insted of a metal pulley we tried to use a printed one.
Therefore I modified greg frosts script for pulleys suitable to T5 belts by iteration.



Against all assumtions: The pulley is strong enough to told the torque of the gears.

The additional gear forced us to place the idler on the other side, right above the motor.
It doesn't need to resist much pressure. It is only meant to force the timing belt in place.
If it would be screwed on tight, the pulley would move very hard.

A zip tie on opposite side of the idler pushes the timing belt away from the extruder.
This prevents jamming with the incoming timing belt.
The other side of the belt is clamped by the syringe itself.


Like the richrap model it fits to a standard Prusa x-carriage. It has the same mounting holes as the universal wades extruder

The nozzle is something special:
First tries with a 0.5mm cannula failed because always some larger sugar crystals remain in the sugar powder and block the hollow needle.

The used nozzle is a M5 cap nut with a hole through the cap. For rough prints it's enough just to drill a hole through.
In our case we drilled a 2.5mm hole and cut a M3 thread into it.
To get a small hole without 0.5mm drill we used 8mm hexagon socket M3 grubscrews. The hexagon socket is conical shaped and quite deep.



Simply cut the top with an abrasive wheel and remove material until you can see a little hole.
By removing more you can widen the hole.
Being very careful, you can make tiny holes with a diameter <0.5mm

The screw is now only as long as a M3 nut.

To secure the short M3 screw we used a M3 nut cut into halves.
This way you can screw it into the M5 cap nut and still secure it from dropping out.



The pastruder works just fine. It passed heavy duty tests with frost, hazelnut spread and marzipan without any problems. We used the same motor as for the wades extruder and the torque was high enough.

Here you can see a pictures of our very first extrusion test:

The second test with hazelnut spread was successful using a hollow needle as nozzle.



Since you can not print with high speed we tried to print on something else than our printbed - fixed only by mass inertia:

To get better results, we printed on a butter raft:

The third test was again heavy duty:
Driven by the good printing properties of our very viscous frost, we tried to print marzipan.

The cannula blocked, but the 1.5mm and also 0.8mm nozzle didn't.

The results are awesome:



I hope you enjoyed the perspective of printing you own thread candy :-)

Greetings from the lake constance

BonsaiBrain

by holger (holger.krautwasser@eberhard-partner.de) at May 15, 2012 05:13 PM

MakerBlock

コメを噛め

CNCフライスでプリント基板製作講座/その7

第七回『基板切削の準備』 CNCフライスで切削を始める前に準備をしましょう。 ■ 捨て板 プリント基板として切削する銅箔板のほかに、一緒に切ったり穴を空けたりしても良い板を用意しておきます。これを捨て板といいます。 ボール板などで穴を空けるときに、穴を空けたい素材の下に木板などをおいて一緒に穴開けをしますがそれと同じ意味を持ちます。穴あけ時の貫通面破損を押さえる効果と、突き抜けて加工する穴あけ掘削時にテーブルを傷つけない様にといった用途で用います。 オリジナルマインドさんの作例を見ていると銅箔板と捨て板を毎回セットで貼り合わせて使い、捨て板も一回の加工で捨ててしまうようですね。確かにそれは確実な使い方という気がします。 私はテーブルの上に POM の板を一枚張って、それを捨て板として使っています。 実際にプリント基板を作った後では、ドリルの穴や基板切断時の溝などが残ります。 ある程度表面がぼろぼろになって使いにくくなったら、面だしコードで表面を薄く削ります。 これで穴の開いていない面が用意できるのでまたきれいな切削が行えます。 少しずつ少しずつ削って使える面を作っていくので、数ミリの POM で結構持ちます。 1.6mm のベークライト板を使っていたこともありましたが、0.2~0.4mmずつ削っても数回使えるので割と長持ちしました。 ■ 両面テープ CNCフライスのテーブルに固定ねじやクランプがあればそれで銅箔板を固定します。 無い場合は両面テープで銅箔板をテーブルや捨て板に固定することになります。 プリント基板の場合は張り付きやすいので両面テープの利用で良いのでは無いかと思います。 その際両面テープの選択が結構重要になります。 強力なテープを使ってしまうと加工が終わった後剥がせなくなってしまいますし、無理に剥がそうとして曲げてしまったり割ってしまったりする可能性が出てきます。 かといって剥がしやすいテープを使うと、今度は加工中に剥がれて失敗してしまう可能性があります。 どんなテープが良いかというとむずかしいのですが、私は基材が紙じゃ無いものを推します。 紙が基材の両面テープは破けやすいので、加工後剥がすのに大変苦労します。 一押しは「セルタック」というセロハンテープ基材の奴なのですが、入手しにくいという難点があります。 ■ ゼロ点出し これは基材準備ではないのですが、CNCソフト上でここを工作の原点としようというゼロ点決めを行う必要があります。 Gynostemma ではパターン切削、ドリル穴あけ、外形切削の 3種類の G-Code を出力しますが、これらのXY原点は全て同じとしています。なので、最初にここをXY原点として設定するよと決めたらツール(刃)を交換しても触らずにそのまま最後まで使い続けます。 通常はCNCソフトにゼロリセットボタンがあり、押すと座標がゼロにリセットされ現在の刃の位置が原点となります。 Z軸縦方向のゼロ点は刃のセット位置によって微妙に変化します。 Z軸のゼロ点だしについては、刃の止めねじを緩め落下させ板にコツンと当たって止まったところをゼロとします。そこでねじをとめてCNCでZ軸の座標をゼロにリセットします。 プリント基板については板の上なのでこのゼロ点出しの方法で十分事足ります。 これは刃を替える毎に毎回やる必要があります。できるだけ平らな面の上に刃を持って行ってそこでゼロ点だしを行いましょう。

by rerofumi at May 15, 2012 02:03 PM

Another Blogger Blog

Building a Ballet Barre

My Sister has been getting more into her ballet recently, she asked me about the possibility of building her a portable barre.
Not one to do things by half and being rather inclined to build industrial furniture and lighting, there was only one material to build this creation out of...... STEEL!

This will probably be the final use for my pile of 32mm steel pipe and matching Kee Fittings. The stash has seen in previous lives, use in a bed been a scaffolding in a music video and more recently as a frame to support the big scary light.

I set about cutting the steel pipe into the appropriate lengths with my friction cutoff saw,
and assembled the frame:


Presently the frame is sitting on four corner couplers, I intend to make something fancy up involving locking casters and perhaps some 3D printed clamps.

by Patrick Herd (noreply@blogger.com) at May 15, 2012 11:01 AM

iFeel beta

Beta casted Wallace 3D printer prints nicely

As we have earlier posted we have now a beta casted Wallace 3D printer available in our shop. And as some people questioned how good this printer prints, i made some efforts to show how good the print quality of this printer can get.

So i connected a RAMPs 1.4 and a arcol.hu 3.0 hotend to this printer and started calibrating. After adjusting the configuration values of the sprinter firmware to this printer, i started the first testprints.

But it quickly showed that the PID values in the sprinter firmware where not really good for this particular hotend. The temperature varied up 40°C around the requested temperature, which ofcouse causes some printing difficulties. As you can see in the following picture, there are parts of the model where temperature got too high and the whole object started to melt.

So to analyse this, i used the output of pronterface to plot the achieved temperature and find out how to tune the PID values better. In the next picture you can see how the temperature response was in the beginning. The blue curve is the current temperature and the red curve is the heater pwm value. The target temperature was 180°C and you can see how it always over- and undershoots the target temperature.

Some experimentation then got me to this curve. Where it still overshoots in the beginning, but it quickly gets to a pretty stable temperature value with a variation of only a few degrees after the first peak. This was good enough for the next experimentations.

The next print then looked like the following picture. As you can see the temperature problem is solved, but the prints look pretty wobbly.

I quickly found out that this is caused by the x-axis not beeing completly level. As the Wallace uses two motors for the z-axis, a not completly level x-axis causes uneven lift on the z-axis. That means the x-axis is lifted on one side first and then the other side. Fixing this made the z-axis going up smoothly and the next print looked much better:

If you look at it in detail, you can see that there is still a little bit of wobble, but much less then in the blue statue.

Finally i made a short video of this last print, take a look and enjoy a Wallace 3D printer printing:

 

If you now like to get this printer, all parts are available at www.2printbeta.de

by Administrator (domonoky@googlemail.com) at May 15, 2012 10:39 AM

3D Application Development

NaroCAD 1.6.3 and 1.6.4 dll problems

There are some cases where versions 1.6.3 and 1.6.4 don't work because of some missing dlls. I'm investigating the issue and will update the installers as soon as I find the cause.

by Rox (noreply@blogger.com) at May 15, 2012 09:10 AM

method to one's madness

May 14, 2012

3D Printing is the Future

Things to Make: 3D Printed Minifig BattleMech

Sometimes when you are playing with your plastic blocks, your ‘men’ need some serious near-future firepower.

No I’m not talking about a gun made from blue lights, or a tank – I’m talking a Battlemech!

Plus it is a good way of proving that you love your kids.

Wgss has designed this Minifig Battlemech as part of a high school design project.

Just print out the parts, do some minor assembly and you are ready to take on the world!

 

 

by Andy at May 14, 2012 10:09 PM

Tony's Blog

Milestag rocket launcher...continued



Visit Tagbits to see the full range of tagger products described in this blog.

I've been doing further work on my Milestag rocket launcher. I've been doing further work on the control box.

Here is the CAD drawing of what I want:


I modelled the box on one I found on ebay, then printed out 1:1 scale drawings of the holes for each side. Using spray mount I fixed these to the box. This allows me to centre the holes precisely, especially when I use my optical centre punch:



I used a stepped drill for the cable holes:



I designed a custom LCD display mount with allows me some leeway when I cut a rectangular hole for it in the box. It has a flange to hide rough edges and a recess to allow a 2mm protective cover:





Here is a test assembly of the box:



On the other side you can see the curved mounting plates to allow me fix it to the launcher barrel:

by Tony (noreply@blogger.com) at May 14, 2012 09:34 PM

Arcol blog

Arcol.hu hotend v4.0.5

Arcol.hu v4.0 hot-end for 3.0mm filament (works also for 1.75mm filament too).

It has been a long time since I announced v3.0.

The new features:

  • - Hot-zone is completely metal.
  • - high temp extrusion should be possible, like pp, hdpe, plexi, polycarbonate, nylon (hopefully, this will be confirmed within a month)
  • - shorter, more compact, a comparison photo between v3.0 and v4.0:
  • - easier to assemble
  • - reworked nozzle
  • - laping for wrenches on nozzle, on stainless steel, heatsink
  • - built for easy maintenance
  • - self cleaning (you can remove the hardened plastic using two wrenches:)
  • - built with dual extruder in mind
  • - mounting compatibility for the average/stock reprap hotends
  • - 100k thermistor (which seems to be a more common preference)

For assembly instructions please read here:
http://wiki.arcol.hu/arcol-hu-hot-end-v4-assembly

Regressions/future adaptations:
Dropped compatibility for Rapman, Makerbot. A new mounting needs to be designed for these machines.
For rapman a 200k thermistor also needs to be sourced to be electrically compatible.

by Laszlo at May 14, 2012 08:13 PM

May 13, 2012

Iearobotics Blog

Charla sobre Printbots en la Universidad de Málaga

Este martes estaré allí hablando sobre Printbots. Me ha invitado la rama de Estudiantes del IEEE. ¡¡Muchas gracias! :-)

Obijuan

by obijuan at May 13, 2012 10:39 PM

3D Printing is the Future

Shapeways Releases Colour Glazes for Ceramic 3D Printing

Shapeways  has released a range of coloured glazes for their ceramic prints.

They come is these colours with wierd names that I have conveniently translated into Bloke for you:

Girl NameBloke Name
Avocado GreenLight Green
Pastel YellowYellow
Eggshell BlueLight Blue
Satin BlackBlack

The cost is $0.20 per cm2 of surface area. I’m not sure how they work out surface area – but I suspect it requires Maths.

They promise that Satin White (Bloke: White) is coming soon.

Another good option for their range of ceramics.

7160465816_d324776aba_z 7160467036_ed10e303c0_z 7160471534_1921507ed6_z 7160472318_548a3e0478_z colored_ceramics_3d_printing_shapeways

 

 

 

 

by Andy at May 13, 2012 10:26 PM

Leviathans Blog (v2)

Business processes and FOSS

Can someone please silence these managers ordering the engineers to upload a zip file instead of configuring a git repo? And why the hell don’t they just include the .git folder? And why are there people reimporting tar files into git?

At the end it’s just pissing me off and it’s kinda assholish upon the engineers whose commit logs you’ve just deleted…

At least now the new Samsung Galaxy S2 (GT-I9100G) has an OMAP4 inside.
The only usable SoC on the market.
Yes! The only!

by leviathan at May 13, 2012 08:25 PM

MakerBlock

Mad and Sad about “Girls and Robots”

Früg & MeightRobots, Trains, and Cars, oh my

Andrea Phillips’ recent post “Girls and Robots” made me so very mad and sad for both Andrea’s daughter and my own. 1  Right now my daughter and I play with trains, work on robots, talk about science and try to invent and discover things together.  It almost goes without saying, but she also loves fairies, princesses, pink, purple, and anything fancy or frilly.

I know she’s going to face the same pressures as Maya and I try so hard to inoculate her from them.  I tell my daughter she can do anything, because she really can.  I tell her to persevere and not listen to other people when they say you can’t do something.  And I try to set a good example for her.

A few weeks ago we took my daughter to the Western Train Museum in Solano.  After a fun little train ride we took a tour of some of their trains, walked around a few others, and visited their small gift shop.  Inside there were two Thomas the Tank Engine tables – with a little boy, perhaps 3 years old, who was hogging one of the tables.  When my daughter approached the one side he shambled over and tried to shoulder her out of the way.  I looked over at the child’s mother who wasn’t watching her son at all.  So I told my daughter there was a whole other table she could play with by herself – and she went over to play with it quietly.  In a minute or two the little boy walked over to grab a train from her table and the boy’s mother said, “That’s a girl train, this <indicating another> is a boy train, she can play with the girl train, you play with this one.”

I was so furious.  Who is this ignorant woman who can’t control her own toddler to tell my daughter what she should play with?  If she wants to teach her grabby child to be a pig, so be it – but keep away from my kid.

I stomped over and told my daughter, louder than was strictly necessary, “Honey, you can play with any train you want to.  You don’t have to listen to anyone.”  The woman said nothing and was soon gone.2

I can only hope the incident won’t leave any impression on my daughter – but I’m not optimistic. 3  What really scares me is that a multitude of ignorant people will all make innumerable ignorant remarks and one day, my daughter will tell me that she doesn’t like trains and robots because she wants people to like her.

  1. Photo Credit: Don via Compfight
  2. Only as an adult to I realize the terrible price a parent must pay for teaching their child to be independent.  Doing so successfully means your child won’t be subservient to anyone.  It also means you’ve sown the seeds of insubordination.  I suppose if that it is the cost of a free-thinker, I am happy to pay it.
  3. Yesterday, out of the blue, she started humming Darth Vader’s Imperial March.  Then she mentioned something about Darth Vader inspecting a spaceship.  Shocked, I asked her how she knew about that since she’s never seen the movies.  She said I once told her about the beginning of Star Wars.  If I did, and I must have, I would literally have to have been at least 6 months prior.


by MakerBlock at May 13, 2012 01:17 PM

Open Manufacturing Google Group

Re: [Open Manufacturing] [survey] Participate on a 3D printing community survey

hi,

Friendly reminder about the 3D manufacturing community survey. The
survey has been received well. Total amount of responses so far is 320
out of which partial response amount is 84. If you haven't taken it
yet, you have a few days left. Survey will be closed on May 15th.
Results will be published as soon as possible at

by Jarkko Moilanen (jm60...@gmail.com) at May 13, 2012 06:43 AM

Diary of a Technocratic Anarchist

Bought a Chinese UP! printer


Got my 3D Up! printer running.  There was some drama with installing drivers.  The manual instructions were written for Windows XP and I was using Windows 7.  Slightly different way of doing things which I managed to puzzle out.

Tested the extruder.  It prints at 270 C.  Now I understand why they designed the extruder head the way that they did.  You'd be hard pressed to print at that temperature with a Reprap extruder head.

by Forrest Higgs (noreply@blogger.com) at May 13, 2012 02:13 AM

MiniBnz RepRap Build

Video of the Vavle nozzle bench test.

Last night and yesterday i was rather industrious and made some good headway with my extruder, i tore it down after using it for a little bit for some preliminary testing, i would get close but then decide to add or change something so i would have to start again. This morning i have done a first test on the first nozzle, it also the first time i have tested a 0.25mm nozzle, there is nothing like changing only 1 thing at a time :D.


in this video you can see the valve work as the filament is pushed by the extruder the nozzle moves down and the valve slides out of the way ready for printing, there is one little problem with this profile of nozzle the step in the tip has two problem, A) the valve gets caught on the edge, this can be solved by forming the edge of the valve more, this may require a thicker but narrower valve. And B) the valve (if watch carefully) is pushing the nozzle back up into the extruder, this may or may not be a problem. Either way i am very happy with the way this works for a first try this is Awesome..

each time you hear the stepper feed its going slowly at a rate of 100mm/min and feeding 5mm of stock each time, tests will prove how well this actually works out, these valves are very crude, if i had better tools i would have made them 8mm wide and possibly attempted to put a V grove in the end to see if that helps with the riding up on the nozzle, i can see this riding action causing a problem down the path when the nozzle becomes worn from repeated opening and closing, but for a first attempt i am happier than a pig in mud..

by Minibnz (noreply@blogger.com) at May 13, 2012 01:10 AM

May 12, 2012

Leviathans Blog (v2)

Android…

Samsung Galaxy S2 and Asus Transformer Prime, both with Android market…
I don’t pay for software, I’m FOSS user…

WTF? Money for installing packages?
My solution for such an issue is easy.

If it costs, don’t use it :-)

by leviathan at May 12, 2012 10:41 PM

method to one's madness

power resistor

i made this little guy up today, though my psu worked without the load on the 5v rail, when i put this buy on i got just a hair more voltage out, enough to notice it any how. but i just did some digging today and found that heatsink.

 so i drilled it out and bolted it on, and now it feels allot cooler, it was borderline hot without it. now it is just shy of 40c after 5 min, so i am doing allot better with that.

on a little side not, i got this keypad LCD shield today and i got it working with a one wire temp sensor, though my programming kinda sucks, i want to try to get it to save a hourly average throughout the day so i can then transfer them onto my computer and chart them out. there is allot more i would like to do with this project but every time i try to do more than the most simple things my brain just goes blank, its not very helpful for making progress on things.


by mike mackenzie-grieve (noreply@blogger.com) at May 12, 2012 04:15 PM

MiniBnz RepRap Build

My Powered Dividig Head

I  need a powered Dividing head for the Mill so i can make gears and drive bolts for the printer, i found  something close on ebay.. and i have since made up an frame for it to attach a stepper motor to the chuck..
 here is the chuck there is a locking screw that holds the back to tighten the jaws and while milling.
 Have i mentioned i am a lazy bastard.. I want to make gears with nice fine teeth and drive bolts for my printer with out breaking a sweat, done that too much already.. so i have devised a way to attach a stepper motor to the back of it and still maintain the ability to mount it either vertically or horizontally.  

I took a 12mm 1.25mm pitch bolt and drilled a hole in the end to match the steppers shaft, then i made a flanged shaft to attach the back of the chuck, on this i have a hobbed section that the bolt will run in, as it does the chuck will turn, but alas my measurements we off by 0.5-1mm and the drive bolt does not make proper contact with the flanged shaft. so i am going to have to print (slowly) a new worm and spur gear that i can use in this frame to mill a metal one out that will be able to turn while milling. the plastic one will require me to lock off the chuck when i make a cutting pass, i should be able to make the spur gear i need and the worm on the lathe. so many projects on the go it will be good to get some finished...

by Minibnz (noreply@blogger.com) at May 12, 2012 01:02 PM

3D printing

Resin has arrived for UV DLP printer

i order some resin at bucktown to tryout print with DLP 4 colours check it out
i was reading the msd safety sheet.. i will have to be very carefull with this stuff http://www.bucktownpolymers.com/msds/ps102-uv_msds.pdf

by Ed (noreply@blogger.com) at May 12, 2012 08:37 AM

May 11, 2012

Charles Edward Pax

Motor Vehicle Collision

On the way to work this morning I watched a cop car T bone a black SUV. I gave a statement to the police and my business card to the driver of the SUV. I’m recording my thoughts here while they’re fresh.

This morning I was walking on the sidewalk at Eastern Parkway and Frankine Avenue in Brooklyn. My location at the time of the collision is represented by the blue circle. My destination was the subway entrance represented by the green circle. I witness a sedan style police car strike the passanger side of a black SUV. The police car’s path is represented by the red arrow. The SUV’s path is represented by the black arrow. The intersection of the red arrow’s tip and black arrow is where the collision took place.

I did not observe the state of the traffic light. However, I was paying attention to the crosswalk signal represented by the yellow circle. At the time of the collision there was an amber blinking hand. After the collision I continued walking across the street, keeping an eye on the cars while mentally processing what happened and deciding if I should stick around. As I made it across Franklin Avenue to the crosswalk signal I observed that the signal was still blinking. The crosswalk signal is significant because it indicates the SUV had a green light at the time of the collision.

I did not hear the police car siren, but I couldn’t say with certainty that it was not on. I’m fairly confident that the siren was off and a few blips were sounded just before entering the intersection. I can say with certainty that the police car did not slow down enough to ensure the intersection was clear. Also, the SUV was traveling at a normal speed when entering the intersection.


by Charles Edward Pax at May 11, 2012 02:04 PM

Bits from Bytes official blog | RapMan 3.2 | 3DTouch

California School Pumps Up the Volume


Remember in High School when the teachers started taking away your Ipod for listening to it in the hallways? Or for some of our older friends your Walkman or Discman? Well out in California a very special school took a new approach to music in the classroom. Our friend Mr. Lewis sent us photos of a project that his students are working on, Speaker Casings! For a few weeks now each student has been able to design and create their own speaker casings and then print them out. Here are some examples:













by Andrew, Bits From Bytes (noreply@blogger.com) at May 11, 2012 01:47 PM

May 10, 2012

UltiMachine blogs

New PLA Colors Coming Soon To UltiMachine!

We at UltiMachine are happy to report a spectrum of beautiful new PLA colors are heading our way this summer! We now have a small supply of these colors in our store, available to purchase in 1.75mm 1lb coils. We will have all filament/coil sizes available within a couple of months. We have introduced metallic Gold, Purple, Brown, Green Opaque & Red Translucent. These vivid colors have turned out great, & we hope everyone enjoys printing their designs with them as much as we have. If you have any suggestions for future color choices, we would be happy to hear them! Just send an email to Sales@UltiMachine.com, or fill out the suggestions form located on our website.  Happy Printing!

PLA 1.75mm Brown 1lb, PLA 1.75mm Gold 1lb, PLA 1.75mm Green Opaque 1lb, PLA 1.75mm Purple 1lb, PLA 1.75mm Red Translucent 1lb

by britt at May 10, 2012 09:34 PM

Bits from Bytes official blog | RapMan 3.2 | 3DTouch

Big News for Our Users

We've taken a big leap here at the Innovation Station and we've revamped our Forum. Starting Monday May 14, 2012 our forum will be getting the big upgrade that it so desperately needs. A few new features include a working points system, in order to recognize the efforts of our most active forum users. Our search feature is now properly working, allowing you to follow your favorite bloggers and topics. Also the new forum will feature enhancements such as a navigation bar to allow users to view the newest topics. Users will also be able to find their articles of interest through better organization and categorization of topics.  These and many more enhancements await you on the new blog, make sure to register today!

We apologize for the delay, we will be live with the new Forum on Monday.

by Andrew, Bits From Bytes (noreply@blogger.com) at May 10, 2012 08:43 PM

3D Printer

Tales of a modern life

How LEE filters are made

Like a great many photographers I am using LEE filters on my flashes and lenses.
The 200+ sample pack has pretty much become a standard item for strobists.
What I just watched is a video about how they are made.
I'd never have expected this to be a 2.5 day purely manual process done in the UK.
My guess would be some kind of highly automated manufacturing plant somewhere in asia.
You don't see much of that kind of manual work anymore.



    by Marcus Wolschon (noreply@blogger.com) at May 10, 2012 05:02 PM

    3D Application Development

    Released NaroCAD 1.6.4 Alpha


    The big feature delivered on this new version is the Solver. The line tool uses a new Solver that started to work properly at an acceptable speed.
    Replaced Rectangle tool with a rectangle having different constraints on it. The Solver can modify it now.
    The new Solver supports: parallel, perpendicular, horizontal, vertical, point on  point and point on line constraints.
    The new constraints are covered with unit tests, these can be used as coding samples.

    You can download the new version here.

    Next iteration the focus will be on improving the solver, making more fixes at the spline tool and if there is time maybe also enhance the trim tool. With these the 2D tools will be stabilized and we'll move on stabilizing the 3D ones.

    by bxtrx (noreply@blogger.com) at May 10, 2012 11:08 AM

    3D Printer

    What are the pros and cons of your machine?

    Hi Guys,

    Since I created the blog I knew that a lot people would be working in similar project and many of them would create a printer or kit. I think this is great because our project has inspired some other people.

    I also knew that the mechanical design in this machine will be something that a lot of people will copy, modify, improve…. That’s the reason we:

    -    Focus a lot on software as we believe it can be used with any kit.
    -    Will provide the mechanical design details once we reach the goal. We don’t expect that this will be private after the campaign as things will be mainly available on internet.

    So, what are the pos and cons of our project?

    Pos:
    -    Software – we have the best software at affordable price, there is nothing similar in the market that can create the support and print. There are few open source slice STL, this is easy, the complex thing that no open source has is the ability to create the support automatically for the object. And none of open source software has a 3D graphical interface.

    -    Controller board – our controller board control 100% of the printer, including VGA input for the projector and motors. Most of people working on similar kits are using the VGA output from the notebook to display the image. This means that you cannot do anything on your computer while you are printing because your monitor will be “busy” for the printer.

    -    So, you just need one USB cable out of computer to control the machine

    -    We have very few moving parts, which allow us to have very thin wall thickness, around 300 microns. This is very important if you want to print small objects and hollow ones.

    -    We are using reliable linear actuator which provides better precision on Z axis.

    Cons:

    -    We are not a open source kit (electronics and software)

    Regards,

    Jr


    by Junior Veloso (noreply@blogger.com) at May 10, 2012 08:11 AM

    Open3DP (Open 3D Printing)

    Printrboard Wired up and ready to go

    Minimalism at its best.

    The printrboard cost $129, comes with the board, a microUSB plug, and the promises of a smoothly running printer. I have run tests on the X,Y and Z axis, brought the extruder well beyond 220C and have no doubts it will exceed expectation on printing.

    Printrboard- wired up and running

    (only the middle two pins are necessary for the extruder)

     

    The wiring diagram.

    I haven’t bothered testing out the hot bed, because  there is little need for one during printing. That leaves 4-6 pins I can use for baking cookies… or whatever.  There are pins for a fan which may allow a simple transition to a frostruder. (Generally frostrusion runs on two solenoids.  Solenoid 1 thinks it is an Extruder and Solenoid 2 a fan). But more on that later.

    Printrbot PDF…

    http://printrbot.com/files/2012/04/Printrbot-Getting-Started-Guide2.pdf

    That link will walk you through it. ( I would simplify it but it is still under development)

    Installing Pronterface and Slic3r is a piece of cake compared to February-March 2012  No need to worry about pyglet, pyserial, pyreadline, etc.  It is three clicks and  you’re done standard install.

     

    The program is choppy on Replicator 0027 but runs if you use the XML hack found here…  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12781 and switch to the Baud rate 115200 (klimentkip/teacup)  This was tested for frostrusion purposes.

    by bowman at May 10, 2012 01:39 AM

    May 09, 2012

    Open3DP (Open 3D Printing)

    ABS plastic & Solvents: 4 good ideas

    Some people say work smart, not hard. But, I am incredibly lazy, so I don’t want to work at all.

    That said;

    The 3D printing community is working way to hard on designing complex parts. They are really good parts, but they take work to produce.  I want to help you guys out with a bit of insight from organic chemistry,  so designers can put their skills to really good use streamlining their parts.

    4 of Concepts with Chemistry to Help the 3D printing community
    Warning: (generally) Do not mix ketones + alcohols = Boom

    1st Concept: No hot bed necessary
    ABS cement can be used as a replacement for a heated build plate.
    Just smear it on a a flat surface, until it streaks, less is more.
    If you can’t see through it, it is excessively thick (harder to remove).

    2nd Concept: Make your own ABS Cement
    Any color of ABS plastic can be solvated (dissolved) in:
    -acetone (faster)
    -Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK)- 2-Butanone (slower)

    This means you can recycle your scraps by dissolving them, and make custom colored ABS Cement.
    By changing the ratio of ABS to solvent, you can adjust the viscosity of ABS cement.

    3rd Concept: Design parts to be bonded together
    Many of the parts designed by the 3D printing community bolt together. The initial designs key up well, but the obsession with the hex nut recess is unnecessary.

    -ABS cement to bond parts together chemically, and get a structural part with no bolts.
    -ABS parts built sparse can be filled with ABS cement, and then drilled out, sized up, tapped, or repaired.

    4th Concept: Surface finish
    A mild coating of acetone or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) can bring printed printed parts to a high gloss finish, and can reduce/eliminate print layer ridges.

    The Technical Stuff

    ABS plastic consists of three major components (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene).  Solvents that have a similar organic structure can help break down, the components of the plastic.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene

    This is solvated easily by Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) Industrial Name
    2-Butanone IUPAC Name

    These chemical names are one and the same, but Industry and science have different naming conventions. It is just like the inches vs millimeters problem.  Regardless, 2-Butanone = MEK and is a cousin of the Butadiene linkage that holds the ABS polymer together. Acetone acts as a polar protic solvent that can generally solvate a wide variety of polymers. Both of these solvents can make a dilute ABS solution that can use the intermolecular forces to bond the plastic polymer to the glass. Intermolecular forces are what geckos use to run on glass, teflon, or any surface. Bonding with enough surface area on a molecular level allows the two objects to acts as one. This is how the solvated ABS prevents delamination without a hotbed, but by the same mechanism of intermolecular bonding.

    by bowman at May 09, 2012 06:00 PM

    Tales of a modern life

    Ich rate von Elektroshop Wagner ab.
    Küche nicht bin 2ter Stock sondern nur Erdgeschoss geliefert und erst als ich ratlos vor dem Kühlschrank stand hat der Fahrer daran gedacht mit anzupacken.
    Zitat:
    "1-Mann Service (+29€): Wenn Sie selbst mit anpacken können (und wollen), dann empfiehlt sich der günstigere 1-Mann Service. Hierbei trägt der Fahrer die Geräte mit Ihnen zusammen bis zum Verwendungsort. Dieser Service steht nur bei Geräten unter 50kg zur Verfügung."
    Na gut, kann man noch mit leben. War weniger schwer als gedacht.
    Problem: Die Hälfte fehlt obwohl per Email zugesagt.
    Ich hatte extra gefragt ob Wasserhahn und dessen Schläuche dabei sind und es hieß:
    "Im Lieferumfang sind die Schläuche sowie der Wasserhahn enthalten."
    Was ist? Nicht mal das Loch in der Platte um einen Wasserhahn einzubauen ist vorhanden.
    Von Amaturen und Warm+Kaltwasser -Schläuchen natürlich keine Spur.

    Bin gerade dabei das per Email zu klären. Mache mir da aber keine großen Hoffnungen.


    by Marcus Wolschon (noreply@blogger.com) at May 09, 2012 10:37 AM

    Prometheus Fusion Perfection

    OpenSCAD Model of Hot Cathode

    Here’s a rendering of the hot cathode and the cylinder mentioned in the last post. The important dimensions here are diameter of the holes in the cylinder, and their distance between them, because they were made according to the measurements of the actual cathode. The rest of the dimensions are approximate. We will take more measurements and tweak the model to fit them.

    Here’s a link to the OpenSCAD code.

    Image

    Image

    By DOMENICK BAUER


    by dbauer7890 at May 09, 2012 04:05 AM

    May 08, 2012

    rapman-education's posterous

    3D Scanning for 3D Printing..Free!

    File

    Some time ago Autodesk released 123D Catch, a free (beta), online service for creating 3D objects using just an ordinary digital camera. I couldn't resist giving it a go! But I didn't have great success, probably due to my impatience... I just didn't take enough photos... You need to upload about 50 to 70 pictures!

    Well it looks like the guys at Bits from Bytes (3D Systems) have been doing a bit of experimenting and judging by the above photo they have been more successful than me!

    The BfB guys have also been looking at using a kinect camera to produce 3D objects using the free ReconstructMe software.. Wish I had one of those kinects to play with.

    Anyway, if you are interested to give it a go yourself just have a look on the BfB website (just click the "support" button at the top of the homepage and select "technical resources", scroll down to the bottom of the page for the links to the information).

    Of course being "free" this is ideal for experimenting with in schools, I really must give it a go again. If you try it yourself or with your students why not let us know how you get on.

    Permalink | Leave a comment  »

    May 08, 2012 06:07 PM

    May 07, 2012

    Buildlog.Net Blog

    ORD Bots on Sale at Inventables.com

    Inventables is now taking pre-orders for Hadron ORD Bots.  I will not be shipping anymore kits and Inventables  is now the official, authorized distributor of the kits.  Go here to get on the list for one of the units.  The Inventables kits will also have the following improvements.

    Bright Dipped Finish

      The previous version looked great, but the matt finish quickly gets dirty and scuffs often looked like sceatches.  Bright dipping is a chemical polishing that is done before the anodizing process.  The goal is to get the finish quality of a Mag Light.

    Open Ended Wiring Holes.

    A well wired ORD Bot is a thing of beauty, but once wired some of the parts are trapped by the wiring.

    By adding open ended wiring holes, the wires can escape out the sides.  This will allow you to completely side off thing like the gantry without removing any connectors.

    Wider Extruder Platform.

    Deep extruders like some of the Wade’s family of extruders previously had to overhang the front a bit.  This adds more depth and an extra hole pattern to give you more options.

    Loop Belts

    With loop belts you will not have to measure and cut from open ended stock.  They will be a lot easier to install and will have twice the grab in the belt clamps.

    Build Platform Changes.

    • Added holes for the ORD Bot heated build platform.
    • Increased spacing between the wheels.  This improves rigidity, reduces the sensitivity and cleans up the busy center area where the clamp and switches. fit.

    Electronics Plate Changes

    The Electronics plate will now have hole patterns for the RAMPS, ORDuino and Azteez controllers.

    by bdring at May 07, 2012 05:37 PM

    New reprap images on Photobucket

    2fe46104.jpg

    2fe46104.jpg
    2fe46104.jpg

    Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App

    by giz_zmo at May 07, 2012 04:15 PM

    823fa786.jpg

    823fa786.jpg
    823fa786.jpg

    Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App

    by giz_zmo at May 07, 2012 04:15 PM

    retrointerfacing

    This is what I am talking about..

    Now, print your own! http://www.techrestore.com/2010/02/print-your-own-functional-ipad.shtml

    by edwin at May 07, 2012 02:48 PM

    Have Blue [dot org]

    Successful pod covers

    The other day I finally cracked open the molds to see how things had turned out with my wing pod and tail skid.

    A few air bubbles here, and a lot of weave texture showing through – this is no substitute for vacuum bagging, but will it at least be sufficient?

    Oh noes!  Only two lightweight fiberglass layers were apparently not enough – while flexible enough to be removed from the core, the molded part just wasn’t strong enough to hold up to the tugging and pulling needed to free it.  On the plus side, the fact that it was able to be fully removed means that the waxing and PVA application was sufficient to keep from ruining the plug, so this was promising for the wing pod.

    My ‘kinetic separation method’ for breaking the mold halves apart (whack it on the floor a few times) is still far from ideal, as another corner broke off of the mold.  I now see why people who know what they’re doing build in screwdriver slots so that the halves can be separated in a less destructive manner.  With the satisfying sound of PVA breaking away from a surface, the halves popped free.  The part was still adhered to the female mold half (as evidenced by the black center), but a little careful pulling finally extracted it.

    Finally, a completed, intact part!  Now, would it fit…

    Almost perfect!  There’s a tiny bit of side-to-side slop, but I’d say this is well more than “good enough”.  Now, to make 3 more!

    by Have Blue at May 07, 2012 02:46 AM

    May 06, 2012

    What's design ?

    Bidouille, éducation populaire... et documentation !

    La semaine dernière on était à Mains d'Oeuvres dans le cadre d'un week-end "Bidouille et éducation populaire" ! Au menu, divers ateliers et tables rondes, et en ce qui nous concerne : construction de "most useless box" autrement dit de petite machines qui ne servent absolument à rien... en soit, mais qui sont l'occasion d'apprendre à souder, à construire, à s'amuser ;-) Voir quelques

    by Emmanuel Gilloz - Wat (noreply@blogger.com) at May 06, 2012 09:28 PM

    May 04, 2012

    RepRap: трёхмерный принтер, кот. печатает себя

    Робот будет печатать здания.

    http://i-ddragon.livejournal.com/140472.html
    По наводке от Компьютерры.

    Разработка дизайнера Себастьяна Бертрама - reprap для бетонных конструкций:


    По сути, строителям остаётся только смонтировать установку, и следить за её работой. Проводить вставку окон и строить прочую инфраструктуру пока-что придётся по старинке.

    Блог разработчика здесь.

    May 04, 2012 07:12 AM

    Prometheus Fusion Perfection

    Measurements for Hot Cathode

    All photos.

    See photos for measurements of hot cathode.

    The next steps are modeling the hot cathode (plus clearance) and subtracting that from a cylinder in OpenSCAD:


    by Mark Suppes at May 04, 2012 01:20 AM

    May 03, 2012

    retrointerfacing

    Video Projection System

    For the 100th Gonnagle performance I designed a ‘live video drawing tool’ using webcam, LED spots and processing app.. Software has been written in Processing.. pretty straightforward.. Especially the filters are simple to use but very powerfull.. In the application they are controlled using a midi controller (Korg NanoKey) void draw() { background(255); if [...]

    by edwin at May 03, 2012 03:02 PM

    Procrastineering - Project blog for Johnny Chung Lee

    Ceres: solving complex problems using computing muscle

    Today, Sameer Agarwal and Keir Mierle (as well as a couple others I'm sure) at Google open sourced the Ceres Non-Linear Least Squares Solver.

    Since coming to Google, this is probably the most interesting code library that I have had a chance to work with. And now, you can use it too.   So, what exactly is a "non-linear least squares solver"? and why should you care?

    It turns out that a solver like Ceres is at the heart of many modern computer vision and robotics algorithms. Anywhere you have a bunch of observed sensor data about the world and you want to create an explanation of all those observations, a non-linear least squares solver can probably do that for you. For example, if you have a bunch of distance sensors and you want to figure out where you are relative to the walls. Like this:



    Or if you have a camera, and you want to figure out the position of the camera and objects in view:



    Or say you have a quad copter, and you want to model how it will respond to thrust on different propellers:



    or (as in the case of Google Street view) combining vehicle sensors in the cars with GPS data:



    or even figure out the best way to position your plant so it gets the most amount of sun (assuming you could accurately measure the amount of sun hitting the leaves):


    Non-linear least squares solvers, like Ceres, are a tool for optimizing many variables simultaneously in a complex model/formula to fit some target data. Many of the advanced engineering problems today come down to this.  It's basically a fancy version of your typical line fitting problem:


    This is linear least-squares. The model here is:

    y = m*x + b

    This is "linear" because it is the simple addition of a scaled variable m*x and a constant b.  It is "least-squares" because it minimizes the square of the distance between the line and each of the data points. In this simple case, that algorithm is simply solving for m and b in the line equation. There are methods for directly computing these values. But, if the equation was non-linear such as:

    y = (m*x - cos(x))^2/b

    You now need a non-linear least squares solver.  Many real world problems are non-linear such as anything that involves rotation, camera projection, multiplicative effects, or compounding/exponential behavior.  You might be able to devise a clever way to calculate the optimal values for m and b directly, or you can use an iterative algorithm and let the computer tweak the values of m and b until the squared error to your data is minimized. While this example also only has two variables, Ceres can handle optimizing thousands of variables simultaneously and uses techniques for reaching an error minimizing solution quickly.  Though, it's important to note that it can only iteratively crawl toward the lowest error solution starting from the initial values of m and b you provide... like a drop of water sliding down to the bottom of a bowl.   If the bottom of the bowl is very bumpy, it can get stuck in one of the smaller divots and never reach the lowest part of the bowl.  This is known as getting stuck in a "local minima" and never finding the "global minimum" and the shape of the bowl is called the "cost surface".  When the cost surface of a problem is not very bowl-like, it can lead to problems.

    Ceres can also handle something called "sparsity" efficiently.  This occurs when you have many many variables, but only a few of them interact with each other at a time. For example, the current position of a flying quad copter depends on the previous position and previous velocity. But, the current velocity doesn't really depend that much on the previous position.  Imagine if you made a giant table with all your input variables in the column names and all of your output values in row names and then put check mark in the table where ever the input was used to compute the output.  If most of the table is empty, then you have a "sparse matrix" and Ceres can take advantage of this emptiness (which indicates independence of the variables) to dramatically increase the speed of computation.

    Anywhere you that have data, and you have a model (which just a fancy term for complicated formula) that should be able to generate that data and you want to tweak the values inside your generative model to best fit your data... a tool like Ceres might do the job.

    For many problems, mathematicians and engineers have spent decades devising clever and complex formulas to solve them directly. But in many fields, having a computer perform non-linear optimization on data is becoming the preferred method because it makes it much easier to tackle very complicated problems with many variables, and often the result can be more stable to noisy input.

    The neat thing about using a non-linear solver in a real-time system, is that the computer can respond to feedback in much the same way you do.  If an object is too far to the left of a target position, it knows to move it right.  If the wind starts blowing, and it drift backwards it will automatically respond by pushing forward.  As long as you have an equation to explain how the output will be affected by the controls.  It can figure out the best way to fiddle with the controls to minimize the distance from a target value.

    If I find the time, I might try to post some tutorials on using Ceres. Because I believe this is one of the most powerful tools in modern engineering, and no one ever taught it to me in undergrad or high school.  It's like the difference between doing long division by hand and then being handed a calculator.

    by Johnny Chung Lee (noreply@blogger.com) at May 03, 2012 08:05 AM

    Dave Durant's Blog

    .NET Gadgeteer + Lady Ada(fruit) = blinky goodness!

    I took last Friday off and, since I didn’t really feel like working on any of the 97 side-projects I should be working on, I messed around with one I felt like working on. In particular, a digital-addressable RGB LED strip I picked up a few months ago at adafruit.com, driven by a FEZ Spider .NET Gadgeteer board (I’ve got their starter kit, which includes a ton of stuff) by GHI Electronics.

    Controlling RGB LED strips isn’t anything new – you can find a ton of websites on how to do this with an Arduino-type boards – but I haven’t seen much for doing this type of thing with a Gadgeteer board, so I figured I’d write it up.

    Here’s the end result, a shaky washed-out video of it running through some test sequences. Pretty happy with the way it (the project, not the video) came out, especially with the fading stuff seen towards the end..

    Digression about .NET Gadgeteer

    .NET Gadgeteer is some pretty cool stuff. If you’d like to get a bit into playing with Arduino-type boards but are intimidated by electronics and the development environments make you want to scream, it’s worth checking out .NET Gadgeteer. The libraries & framework are all open source. The basic IDE is free and totally spanks everything else out there – it’s really quite nice and is the same environment I use to write code for our big machines (hardware duplexed, 64-core, 1/4TB of RAM, etc) at work. Threads, timers, live debugging with breakpoints and looking at variables and all that stuff, on a little microcontroller.

    Not having an electronics background, one of my favorite features is that .NET Gadgeteer and its IDE let you just drag components into your project then say “connect modules” and it lays out all the connections for you. If you try to do something it doesn’t like (such as using 5 COM ports when your board only supports 3) it will yell at you and let you make changes.

    Here’s a picture of something I just whipped up by creating a new project for a FEZ Spider and dragging in an accelerometer, SD card, camera, OLED display, compass, joystick, gyro, 4 daisy-chained RGB LEDs and a button. Then I did the “connect” option and get…

    Image

    Showing a MSDEV .NET Gadgeteer project that has nothing to do with LEDs (click for bigger version)

    …all the modules connected. The IDE even adds all the right libraries and variables for these modules so, once you hook up your hardware just like the picutre, you just get to start using it all, right away. Nice!

    Back to the blinky lights: Hardware

    So, you may be asking yourself, if this Gadgeteer stuff is soooo easy and there’s lots of stuff online about RGB LED strips, why aren’t there many things about RGB LED strips with Gadgeteer?

    The answer’s pretty easy: if you look online at Gadgeteer boards, they all only have Gadgeteer sockets on them. These standardized sockets make it really easy to connect up Gadgeteer modules – the wires I use to hook up a color touchscreen are the same that I’d use for a GPS module – but LED strips just have some solder pads on them. No fancy sockets. This isn’t really a big deal but it means a few extra steps. An hour of head scratching and some googling was all it took to get me going.

    The first step was reading through the tutorial at adafruit.com, which explains how to solder the LED strip up and even provides a little .NET MicroFramework (which is similar to .NET Gadgeteer) sample code.  The important bit there, aside from knowing what to solder, was finding that you talk to the LED strip using some protocol called SPI.

    Not knowing anything about SPI, I googled some more and found the Gadgeteer Socket Types page and, from there, the page on SPI sockets and how they should be wired up. Comparing this SPI layout and the Adafruit guide, I see enough to match up the 4 solder pads on the LED strip with the socket: 5V, GND, MOSI and SCK. MOSI is basically SPI output – from the Gadgeteer mainboard to the device (LED strip) – and SCK is a clock signal, which keeps things in sync.

    Part of the Spider starter kit I got included some ‘extender’ modules that are designed for exactly what I need to do at this point: connect something that needs soldering to a Gadgeteer socket. You can see one here – two sockets and space for a .1 header. The 5V and GND spots are nicely labled and from the SPI page, I can see that P7 is MOSI and P9 is the clock.

    The headers I’m using are these but you can find them almost anywhere, cheap. You just count off the number of pins you need (10 in my case) and snap off a strip that length with some pliars. Push the short ends into the holes, secure with a bit of tape (or helping hands or whatever) and solder them in. I could have snapped off 4 individual pins and soldered just those in but these things are so cheap I figure I’ll do all 10 and have an extender I can use for anything, later.

    Also needed is some wiring to go from the strip to the extender module. I’m using some female jumpers wires, which you can also find just about anywhere. I’ve taken 4 different colored wires and snipped them in half . The cut end gets soldered to the LED strip per the Adafruit guide and the end with the female jumper still on it gets plugged into the extender:

    Last on the hardware front is power. The Adafruit page makes it very clear that a little microcontroller isn’t going to have enough juice to drive these LED strips and that you’re going to need some sort of external power supply.

    On the Gadgeteer end, I’ve got a USB Client DP module, which came with my kit. This is a nice little module that lets you use just USB for projects that don’t need a lot of power (and also using USB for deploying and debugging) and you can also hook up external power supply, for when you need a bit more. The web page for this module says you can use anything from 7V to 30V so I’m going to use a 12V supply I have lying around.

    The software

    With all the hardware done, which took an hour or so but would now take me about 10 minutes, now that I’ve done it once and have the links to the Gadgeteer socket specs, I get to write code, which (for me) is much more fun..

    I’m not going to post it all here. GHI (makers of the Gadgeteer board I’m using) has a place for such things but they’re doing some renovations and it’s read-only right now. It should be up in a few days – I’ll post it there and update this blog with the link, once they’re back up. (edit: driver code now at the tinyclr.com site)

    I will post some of the interesting bits of the test program, though. Here’s the startup portion, slighly edited to just have the relevent parts:

    private LedStripLPD8806 mLedStrip;
    
    void ProgramStarted()
    {
        GT.Socket socket;
        socket = GT.Socket.GetSocket(mExtender.ExtenderSocketNumber, true, mExtender, null);
    
        mLedStrip = new LedStripLPD8806(socket, 32);
    
        FlashTest(null);
    }
    

    First, I declare a member variable for my LED strip driver class called mLedStrip. Any time I want to mess with the LEDs, I’ll reference this object. The constructor of this class takes a generic Gadgeteer “socket” instance so I call GetSocket on the mExtender object (which the IDE created for me in a drag/drop scenario like the picture back up at the top of this post) to get the underlying socket. Once I’ve got that, I create the mLedStrip instance, passing it the socket and the number of LEDs. That’s all that’s really needed – the rest of the code just uses methods on mLedStrip.

    Back to the video, the test program does the follow things:

    1. flash all LEDs to red then green then blue
    2. ‘scale’ all the LEDs (light one at a time, from first to last then turn them off in reverse order) on red then green the blue
    3. change each LED in the strip to a random color (100 times)
    4. fade from whatever the random test left on the strip to solid red. Then fade to green then blue
    5. fade to random colors
    6. all LEDs off

    Here’s the video again, along with some of the code that does the steps above:

    Here’s the flash test. Note that mLedStrip is called with just color values – there’s nothing saying which LED I want to light. This tells the driver to set all the LEDs in the strip at the same time.

    private void FlashTest(object o)
    {
        for (int test = 0; test < 3; test++)
        {
            int r = test == 0 ? 32 : 0;
            int g = test == 1 ? 32 : 0;
            int b = test == 2 ? 32 : 0;
    
            mLedStrip.Set(r, g, b);
            Thread.Sleep(250);
        }
    
        mLedStrip.TurnOff();
        ScalesTest();
    }
    

    The scales test is similar but this time I set each LED individually. First to set the color up the strip then back down the strip to turn each one off. The driver code pushes colors to the strip right away unless you tell it otherwise so you can update any particular LED, just calling mLedStrip.Set.

    private void ScalesTest()
    {
        for (int test = 0; test < 3; test++)
        {
            int r = test == 0 ? 32 : 0;
            int g = test == 1 ? 32 : 0;
            int b = test == 2 ? 32 : 0;
    
            for (int i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++)
            {
                mLedStrip.Set(i, r, g, b);
                Thread.Sleep(5);
            }
    
            for (int i = NUM_LEDS - 1; i >= 0; i--)
            {
                mLedStrip.TurnOff(i);
                Thread.Sleep(10);
            }
        }
    
        RandomTest();
    }
    

    For flashing random colors, each LED gets a different color and I want to the whole strip to flash at once so I needed a way to tell the driver to update a bunch of LEDs, without it pushing the data to the strip. BeginUpdate and EndUpdate do just this. BeginUpdate tells the driver not to push anything out – it just updates the color values in memory. EndUpdate tells it that you’re done and want to push the color data in memory to the strip.

    The driver also can take a integer with red, green and blue encoded into it – I’m using that here with the output of the RandomColor method, which returns a semi-random set of colors in an int.

    I’m also testing the indexer method of the driver. Indexers are a great feature of the C# language that let you define a method for what to do when a caller treats you like an array. The mLedStrip variable isn’t an array but I’ve written the code so that if somebody calls it like an array, like “mLedStrip[led]” below, it acts like Set (used above to set one LED) on the LED being indexed. Hard to explain but a really nice language feature, once you get it..

    private void RandomTest()
    {
        for (int i = 0; i < 100; i++)
        {
            mLedStrip.BeginUpdate();
    
            for (int led = 0; led < NUM_LEDS; led++)
            {
                mLedStrip[led] = RandomColor();
            }
    
            mLedStrip.EndUpdate();
            Thread.Sleep(10);
        }
    
        StartFadeTest();
    }
    

    After this are the fade tests, which is split into 2 pieces. Since the driver needs to push out a bunch of updates during the fade – one for each change in the colors – it uses a timer that fires at some specified interval. I don’t really want the test program to block while this happens so I’m using a C# event to tell the driver how to let me know when the fade completes:

    private void StartFadeTest()
    {
        mFadeTestNumber = 0;
        mLedStrip.OnFadeComplete += NextFadeTest;
        NextFadeTest(null);
    }
    

    The 2nd line above probably looks funny if you’re a C/C++ person. Underneath, a C# event is sortofa list of function pointers. You add callbacks to the list with += and remove them with -=. On the driver side, I just call OnFadeComplete like a method and the framework invokes any methods that opted in with a +=. So, basically, that line tells the driver to call NextFadeTest() whenever a fade completes.

    The 3rd line manually calls NextFadeTest to prime the loop.

    private void NextFadeTest(object ignored)
    {
        if (mFadeTestNumber < 3)
        {
            // first few times through, fade to solid r, g or b
            int r = mFadeTestNumber == 0 ? 63 : 0;
            int g = mFadeTestNumber == 1 ? 63 : 0;
            int b = mFadeTestNumber == 2 ? 63 : 0;
    
            mLedStrip.InitFade(2500);
            mLedStrip.FadeTo(r, g, b);
            mLedStrip.StartFade();
        }
        else if (mFadeTestNumber < 20)
        {
            // fade to random colors; one second fade with 40 steps (25ms) each
            mLedStrip.InitFade(1000, 40);
            for (int i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++)
            {
                mLedStrip.FadeTo(i, RandomColor());
            }
    
            mLedStrip.StartFade();
        }
        else
        {
            // all done - turn the strip off
            mLedStrip.TurnOff();
        }
    
        mFadeTestNumber++;
    }
    

    Two versions of InitFade, which sets up the fade in the driver, are used above: InitFade(2500) tells the driver that I want to do a fade sequence which will take 2.5 seconds. The other, InitFade(1000, 40), tells the driver that I want a fade that will last 1 second and have 40 steps in it. The version without the number of steps parameter will do the math so that 50ms (1/20th of a second) steps are used, which looks fine to me.

    After InitFade, the FadeTo method is called for each LED that you want to participate in the sequence. If you don’t call FadeTo on a particular LED, it just stays the same color. Like the Set method used above, FadeTo has 2 versions, one to do the whole strip at once and one to do a particular LED.

    Once all the LEDs are set to fade where I want, I just call StartFade and return. The driver will call this method again, once the current fade is complete..

    That’s pretty much it.. Fun stuff to play with!


    Filed under: .NET Gadgeteer

    by Dave Durant at May 03, 2012 04:21 AM

    May 02, 2012

    Iearobotics Blog

    Simulación de la cinemática del Miniskybot en octave/Matlab

    Click here to view the embedded video.

    Ya tengo simulada la cinemática del Miniskybot 2 en octave/Matlab. Las fuentes están disponibles en el github del miniskybot, en la carpeta simulation/octave_matlab. Ejecutar el programa main.m para simular la trayectoria por defecto.

    El programa de ejemplo mueve el robot (y dibuja la trayectoria) según los valores escogidos para su velocidad lineal (v) y angular (w), ambas normalizadas (Valores entre -1 y 1). Es la base para más adelante hacer simulaciones de algoritmos de control de movimiento (motion control).

    Obijuan

    by obijuan at May 02, 2012 05:26 PM

    Have Blue [dot org]

    Shaving weight on the Diamond 2500

    One thing I’ve noticed about EZ-LAM 60 epoxy is that the maker wasn’t lying about not using it when the ambient temperature is under 65 °F.  It’s now been over 48 hours since I laid up the two pod molds, and the fiberglass/epoxy is still slightly pliable.  I’m sure in another week or so when standard late spring temperatures finally arrive the epoxy will fully cure in 24 hours when in my basement, but for the colder parts of the year I’ll need to use EZ-LAM 30 or just start experimenting with the West System hardeners.  As such, this is a quickie post on removing the weights from the Diamond 2500 powered sailplane.

    I hate seeing RC planes come from the factory with a bunch of steel washers glued into the nose – if the plane has the center of gravity too far back, I’d rather add more fuel to the front (in the form of a bigger battery) than dead weight.  I think I know why manufacturers do this, however – they want to be absolutely certain that the plane is stable, even if it means reduced performance.  “A nose heavy plane flies poorly; A tail heavy plane flies once” is the adage I’ve heard a number of times.  As such, I used to fret about having too little weight in the nose, while now I find myself pushing the CG on my planes further and further back to improve the glide slope.

    The Diamond 2500 has a pair of steel blocks glued into the nose under the plywood battery tray at the very front (visible just under the motor wires):

    Unfortunately, the plywood tray can’t be removed to get at the weights, but with a flat bladed screwdriver and an assortment of picks, I was able to extract them from the rear of the cockpit area (fortunately they weren’t glued in very securely).

    129 grams of dead weight!  Not only is there nose weight in the Diamond 2500, but there are wingtip weights as well!  Supposedly this is to reduce the roll rate, but with a big 2.5m wingspan, I can’t imagine that the roll rate is all that blazing in the first place.

    The wingtip weights are glued in a little more securely than the nose weights, so I epoxied a steel rod to the weight to pull it out.  After removing the weights, I glued a small block of white foam in the cavities.

    Every little bit helps, as I intend to put plenty of FPV gear on this airframe.  One final bit of weight reduction is the wing spar, which is a length of thick wall aluminum tubing (which slides into square steel tubes inside the wings – I’d love to remove them, but both are glued in quite securely).  The aluminum spar weighs in at 133.8g, but the Goodwinds 020979 carbon fiber tube (which is a perfect fit in both length and diameter) is a mere 58.9g.  All told, these weight reductions add up to nearly 9 ounces – that’s the weight of a 2500mAh 4S LiPo battery pack!

    by Have Blue at May 02, 2012 05:08 AM

    May 01, 2012

    Cyrozap's Tech Projects

    Debian Linux + ReplicatorG

    Recently, I have been trying to get rid of my MacBook Pro so I will be able to upgrade my iPhone in the Fall when the new one is supposed to come out. Up until now, my MacBook had been my MakerBot-controlling machine. Now that I have a nice, speedy Linux laptop with an average of 7 hours of battery life and become more proficient with Linux, I’ve been using the MacBook less and less. Today, I decided I was going to print more parts from the Mendel-Inspired Lowrider. To do this, I needed to install ReplicatorG. Well, I got it running fine, but it wasn’t detecting my serial port (I plan on using the physical RS-232 port on my laptop instead of the USB-TTL convertor). As is the norm with Linux, I figured it was a permissions problem and, lo-and-behold, I was right! This article got me up and running rather quickly. Basically, I just had to “sudo chmod a+rw /dev/ttyS0″ and I was good to go.

    An interesting thing I noticed: for some reason, Skeinforge works a lot faster on my Debian Laptop than my MacBook Pro even though they have the same processor (T7300) and RAM speed (DDR2 667 MHz).

    The thought just occurred to me that maybe my Debian Laptop’s Skeinforge is faster because the Debian Laptop has an SSD.

    by cyrozap at May 01, 2012 05:38 PM

    Tim Attwood's Blog

    Large Files

    It's been a while. I'm looking for a good understanding of the memory leaking in GHC haskell. In general things that should be compiled in a simple manner tend to start turning into unevaluated chunks of stuff until some value is needed. That's great, lazy is handy sometimes, but sometimes it's just bad. The compiler should be making smarter choices about optimizing, there should be some sort of option to let it know you want to minimize memory usage anyway. As it is it always optimizes for speed, or code size or something. That leads to refactoring code in the hope of making it all behave better, one liners turn into massive libraries and weeks trying to understand how someone else managed to make something they think works, when a lot of time it's really experimental. There are dozens of versions of libraries about dealing with long files, almost all aren't tested, none seem to have any ease in using them. Reading values and processing something from a file should be easy, just sequence it all one chunk or line at a time, it shouldn't always try to force huge memory usage. This is the sort of thing that makes people say haskell is a toy language.

    by TimA (noreply@blogger.com) at May 01, 2012 09:35 AM

    April 30, 2012

    MakerGear - Frontpage

    TedxUChicago 2012

    The folks at TedxUChicago kindly invited us to run printers alongside the presentations. Over lunch I took M2 outside - it was maybe 45F with a moderate, chilly breeze.

     

     

    Had an excellent time! (except for the drive back where it was raining so hard the road lines were not visible - saved by the reflectors!!)

     

    by Rick Pollack at April 30, 2012 11:25 PM

    Uploads from MakerGear

    M2

    MakerGear posted a video:

    M2

    M2 running at TedxUChicago (4/30/12). It was about 45F outside with a moderate chilly breeze. Z lift is enabled, watch the black handle carefully, it is pretty zippy. Oh, be sure to turn up your audio for the full effect!!

    by MakerGear (nobody@flickr.com) at April 30, 2012 06:15 PM

    April 29, 2012

    Capolight Electronics Projects.

    One step conversion of an image to gcode for Makerbot Unicorn and Reprap style 3D Printers

    How to take an image like this:

    and in one step generate the gcodes required to do this:

    All credit for cad.py goes to the original creator Neil Gershenfeld of  MIT Center for Bits and Atoms and David Carr of Make Your Bot who optimised the code that is in use here.

    By attaching a pen to a 3D printer it is easy to turn it into a basic pen plotter. However producing the G-codes require to drive your 3D printer as a pen plotter can be anything but easy. This short guide seeks to change that. There are currently a number of ways of producing plotting paths from images. A selection includes:

     Of these options I believe cad.py is by far the simplest as once it is setup you can convert an image directly to gcode in one go with one program and with out the need to use a command prompt. The following is how to install and use cad.py.

    Program Installation

    Download the following software for your respective OS. Note that python 2.6 must be used for cad.py to work. Either un-install newer versions or dirct cad.py to work with python2.6 only.

    Generating the gcodes.

    Run the Cad.py that suits your hardware. I have included three types all with the same interface but each outputs slightly different gcodes.

    • (Cad.py) Plotting with Z axis movement.py -> For use with a three axis Cartesian bot such as a reprap, Makerbot etc. where the pen is lifted off the page due to the movement of the Z (vertical) axis.
    • (Cad.py) Plotting with solenoid or laser.py ->For use with a 2 axis bot where the pen is lifted of the page by an action such as a solenoid or a cutting action like a laser is required. (Use fan port for solenoid as it is switched on off with gcode M106 and M107. Commands need to be switched for use with a laser, see “Optimisation” below.)
    • (Cad.py) Plotting with Makerbot Unicorn.py -> For use with Makerbot Unicorn system which uses a servo to lift the pen off the page.
    If you see a command prompt for a split second and then nothing when you run one of the above then recheck you have all the correct programs installed and the correct version of python (2.6!).

    When the program begins do the following to test your setup:

    1. Select the test image.png file by clicking the “Input File” button and navigating to the “Test Images” folder.
    2. Set “in. per unit”: 25.4
    3. Click “Cam” button
    4. Click “Output Format” and select file type: “.gcodes”
    5. Set the following values:
      1. maximum vector: 0.75
      2. tool diameter: 0.03
      3. tool overlap: 0.1
      4. contours: 1
    6. Click “contour” and wait for the paths to be generated. They appear as red lines over the image at its edges.
    7. Click the save butting and the file will be output to the input directory.

    Thats it, your done. Now load up your desired host, run the gcode and watch your bot draw. Here is a timelaps of my plotter at work.

    Optimisation

    Now that you hopefully have the basics out of the way you may want to know a little more detail. It appears that cad.py takes a black and white image, performs edge detection on the black areas and then calculates tool paths based on that. When choosing your image I recommend you keep its size under 1000pixels or else the rendering time will be come very long (hours+). For best effect use images with clear distinctions between white and black. Although other image formats such as .jpg do work they dont appear to give the same results as png images. Therefore I recommend you convert .jpg to .png and make sure the image is in black and white with high saturation using your desired image software such as irfanview. When the plotting is started the image will be plotted in the positive dictions from where ever the pen is when printing begins. Therefore you can print many images on the same page by moving the pen to a new position between prints.

    Furthermore you can copy and past past multiple gcode files into one as long as you add the new starting position at the end of each file. As mentioned above you have a number of variables to play with in Cad.py. To the best of my knowledge this is their functions:

    • Window sizes – Changes the size of the display window of cad.py. A larger window can make it easier to see when you have the settings right.
    • X Width and Y Width - The size of the image when printed. Roughly equates to the size of the image printed in cm when a .png file is used. Best to do a ‘dry run’ with out a pen first to check the size of your image then adjust accordingly.
    • Zmin and Zmax – The distance the pen is lifted using the z axis (Works for (Cad.py) Plotting with Z axis movement.py  only)
    • Intensity min/max – Change these to change the level of darkness that cad.py interpreted as an edge in an image. Often a low “Intensity Max” value will help the edge detection pickup less distinct areas.
    • Inches per unit – At 24.5 roughly 1cmx1cm image should plot an 1cmx1cm image. Change the value to change the size of your image.
    • Maximum vector fit error – How closely the edge detection fits to the image. Very small values (eg <0.2) take longer to process and can lead to jagged edges. Very high values (eg >1) can lead to corner cutting.
    • Tool Diameter – The most important parameter. The size of the pen end. Lower values mean more detail but longer processing time. To big a value (eg 0.05) and you will not see the detail. Too small (0.001) and you will get artefacts in the edge detection seen as small boxes and dots.
    • Tool overlap – How close two plotted paths are next to each other when more than one contour is used (see below)
    • Contours - The number of layers of infill that will be plotted in dark areas. Set to 1 only the outline will be plotted while -1 will give a complete infill.
    • Feed rate, spindle speed and tools – all not used.

    If you wish to go even further then use a text editor to modify the python script its self (eg (Cad.py) Plotting with Z axis movement.py). Remember to back up the original before making changes.

    • Movement speed – Open with text editor, Use Replace All (Crtl + H for notepad) to replace “F2000″ with your desired feed rate (eg F1500) and for the x/y axis or replace all “F300″ for z axis. Then save the file. Gcode generated will now use that speed.
    • Reverse solenoid direction – Replace all “M106 S255 (Pen Up)” with “M106 (Pen Down)” and vice versa to change the solenoid direction or for using a laser. Currently the solenoid is off when the pen is down.
    • Change unicorn serve travel distance – Change the S value (eg S50 to S60) in the “M300 S50 (Pen Up)”  and “M300 S40 (Pen Down)” commands to change the servo travel distance.
    • Change delay time after pen up and down – Replace all “G4 P120″ commands with your desired delay time in miliseconds. Eg P120 (120 miliseconds) to P150 (150 miliseconds.
    I have only tested the output gcodes with the repetier firmware and host and using a solenoid as the pen lift method.

    Finally as cad.py was originally designed to create tool paths for milling there is nothing to stop you from attaching an engraver, laser or similar and engraving your favourite pattern or quote on something interesting.


    by Richard at April 29, 2012 03:10 PM

    April 28, 2012

    RHM Feed

    a gde

    Head Magnifying Glass

    Рад са SMD компонентама постаје све тежи и тежи како време одмиче… компоненте постају све мање и мање а очи се брже и брже умарају. Полако пролази време када се све да наћи у SOIC паковању и углавном све стиже у 0.5 милиметара растеру. Леми се то руком без превеликих проблема али брзо се матор човек умори. Јесте, знам, нисам ја још матор, али ако сам ја кренуо већ сад да се умарам, шта ће тек бити за 20 или 30 година.. Треба се штедети док је то још могуће :) тако да сам ја полако кренуо да купујем разна помагала.. лемљење 0201 компоненти “на око” просто није забавно..

    Ррва справа коју сам добавио је нека кинеска “лупа за на главу”, лако набављива у продавницама које продају електронику код нас, делује ок на први поглед.. Овај примерак је 8PK-MA003 или MG81007 (не пише ништа на њему а не сећам се шта сам тачно наручио, мислим да је у питању MG81007 но нисам сигуран.

    Основни проблем са овом справом је квалитет израде. Када замишљате јефтину Кинеску пластику, замишљате ову справу. Ивице су оштре, гребу, каиш који држи справу на глави је пластичан, жуља .. и што је најгоре, тело справе које треба да се ротира око каиша да би прешло у позицију за рад и позицију за одмор запиње за каиш тако да је рад са овом справом прилично фрустрирајући. Вероватно би са дало присредити то све (ошмирглати ивице, средити размак између каиша и тела ..) но то је нека друга прича.

    Елем, неке добре и неке лоше особине ове справе, обратите пажњу да ја носим цвике, диоптрија -3 тако да неке вредности у овом посту можда неће бити исте за мене као и за вас.

    Справа ради ок са цвикама, дакле сочиво је позиционирано далеко од очију, носач се ослања на чело..
    Справа има 2 лампе, по једна са сваке стране. Лампе су напајане са по 2 АА батерије, и лампе су “обичне жаруље” но релативно их је лако заменити ледарама.

    Справа има три сочива од којих је једно фиксно за оба ока, друго је исто за оба ока и може да се склони док је треће само за једно око и лако се прикључи ка ова два.

    Комбинације увећања су

    1.8x, 2.3x, 3.7x и 4.8x

    Ширина погледа (гледам у лењир који је фокусиран) је при 1.8x 14цм, при 2.3x 14цм, при 3.7x 2.5цм и при 4.8x 2цм.
    Даљина објекта од сочива када је објекат у фокусу је при 1.8x 20цм, при 2.3x 10цм, при 3.7x 4цм и при 4.8x 2цм

    Закључак: ја ову справу не користим, 2.3 је минимално увећање које има смисла а при том увећању већ морате да забодете нос у оно што радите, а када се већ толико приближите онда вам увећање од само 2.3 и не ради толико посао. При већим увећањима можете само да радите неку инспекцију пошто рад са лемилицом на 1цм од вашег ока .. ја то не бих препоручио.

    MG81007

    MG81007

    Незадовољан са овим првим Кинезом, налетео сам на MP244L који је деловао много боље па сам га наравно купио. Ова справа је доста боље замишљена, каиш има додатни оклоп од мекше пластике који га чини нешто удобнијим, наравно, пошто је ово исто Кинез то је исто пластика, у некој квалитетнијој изради би то вероватно био неки тврђи сунђер или нека тканина.. у сваком случају не гребе и довољно је удобно. Тело уређаја се креће без проблема и не качи ништа а са стране постоје два шрафа за подешавање отпора том кретању. Све у свему тај део функционише одлично. Са горње стране, на средини, се налази сијалица, опет обична жаруља и опет, лако је пребацити то на LED, просто ме чуди да није тако у оригиналу.
    Справа има два места да се уметну сочива, те може да ради са једним или два сочива истовремено а уз справу долазе сочива 1.2x, 1.8x, 2.5x и 3.5x. Било која комбинација је могућа. Сочива се лако мењају, и наравно, направљена су од акрила (сувише би било надати се стаклу).

    Ширина погледа (гледам у лењир који је фокусиран) је 40+цм за 1.2x, 15цм за 1.8x, 11цм за 2.5x и 8цм за 3.5x сочиво. (нисам мерио комбинације)

    Даљина објекта од сочива када је објекат зумиран је 40+цм за 1.2x, 15цм за 1.8x, 10цм за 2.5x и 8цм за 3.5x сочиво.

    Закључак: ова справа је скоро употребљива мада и даље прилично напорна за рад, ја је не користим

    MP244L

    MP244L

    Следећа справа коју сам пробао је 20x додатак. Ова справа има носач као цвикери али уместо стакала на једном оку има јаку лупу и ЛЕД лампу. Повећање је одлично и стварно се могу видети сви проблеми на штампи, али на жалост справа фокусира на око 2 цм од објекта тако да осим за инспекцију није је могуће користити у друге сврхе. За неки фини сајџиски рад је ок, можете видети фини механизам али махати лемилицом на пар цм од очију никако није здраво. На жалост, још једна у низу справа одложених у “фиоку”.

    20x magnifier eyepiece

    20x magnifier eyepiece

    Овај уређај ми је давао највише шансе да буде употребљив. Реч је о носачу за сочива у облику цвика. Жичани оквир који седи на глави као наочаре на средини има пластични носач који у себи има ЛЕД лампу и држач за изменљива сочива. Сочива која долазе уз справу су 1.5x, 2.5x и 3.5x. Справа не лежи идеално на глави ако већ носите цвике тако да је то донекле проблем али је иначе врло удобна и много пријатнија за рад од великих справа које су много теже и од којих се глава врло брзо зноји. Сочива напред се лако и брзо мењају а параметри су исти као и на великим справама, за 1.5x, 2.5x и 3.5x дистанца на којој је објекат фокусиран је 11.5 цм, 9.5 цм и 8 цм док је видно поље 8 цм, 6 цм и 4.5 цм. На жалост није претерано згодно уз наочаре али употребљиво у реалном раду, чак и са цвикама.

    lens on spectacles frame

    lens on spectacles frame

    flattr this!

    by Bogdan Kecman at April 28, 2012 01:40 PM

    Another Blogger Blog

    Rapman Extruder Conduit Clamp


    For a very long time now the Rapman's extruder conduit has been attached to the frame with a couple of velcro cable ties:


    I decided finally that the cable ties were a bit too crude and set about designing something a little more elagent. Twenty minutes later I designed a clamp:
     Now it was only then I realised that the clamp needed an offset between the threaded rod and the conduit. So I had to throw away the nicely rounded clamp and start again.

    Mark two was a little uglier - The part needs at least one flat face with no overhangs. That is, the face which will be laying down on the bed of the printer.


    A couple of hours on the printer later and these were the result:


    Still not perfect (I misread the protractor in my haste) but it clamps the conduit and the threaded rod OK. Mark three will be the correct angle :-)

    If I say so myself this clamp goes pretty well with the first one made for this machine.


    by Patrick Herd (noreply@blogger.com) at April 28, 2012 09:18 AM

    April 27, 2012

    C.W.Holeman III



    ---This Post Contains minor SPOILERS for 
    both The Hobbit, and the movie (Part 1) of the same name.---

    The Hobbit (Part 1) movie is still eight months from release, and I already have a minor litany of complaints about it. I'll restrict each post to a single point. 

    In an special screening of a ten-ish minute long segment shown to theater owners and reporters in late April 2012, (in which it was generally lambasted for using 48 FPS 3D filming techniques, which I cannot comment on, having yet to see that) one reporter gave a quick summery of a few of the tidbits he was privy to, including this quote:

    "Bilbo imperiled by three giant troll-like monsters before Thorin Oakenshield and the dwarves come to his rescue."  [http://uk.movies.ign.com/articles/122/1223523p1.html]

    The DWARVES? SERIOUSLY? 

    This is a perfect example of changing the superbly crafted story that J.R.R. Tolkien wrote simply for the sake of changing things. This is the one thing that truly drove me bats-in-the-belfry, crawling-up the-walls, yelling-at-the-theater-screen, enraged in the Lord of the Rings movies.

    I have always loved the scene with Burt, Tom and William. It's a delightful, light-hearted, yet suspenseful encounter. In it we get to see that Gandalf is not only a high and powerful wizard (A member of the Istari, a Servant of the Secret Fire, wielder of the Flame of Anor, etc.) but he can use guile and small tricks quite effectively as well. In addition to all this, we get to see the,  nature of  Trolls, how they interact with one another, and just how out-classed dwarves are by Trolls.

    Instead, it looks as though we are going to get, "dwarfs attacking monsters." (Yes, I spelled  dwarf with an F; as in Fail.)

    by C.W.Holeman III (noreply@blogger.com) at April 27, 2012 09:12 PM

    April 26, 2012

    julianh72's Mendel Prusa RepRap

    A 3D Printer made out of Lego ... that prints objects out of ... Lego!

    This one has been around for a while, but I just came across it again, and had to share:

    Here http://www.battlebricks.com/makerlegobot/ is a 3D Printer that's made out of 2,400 Lego pieces.



    That is cool!

    But what is even cooler is that instead of using PLA / ABS filament to print, it uses Lego bricks to make objects.



    Awesome! Simply awesome!


    by julianh72 (noreply@blogger.com) at April 26, 2012 06:42 AM

    Kritzinger.net

    Printing Spares

    After quite a bit of messing about getting things setup just right I am eventually managing to print some real world things. I printed 4ndy's Modular Printable Spool and one of jonaskuehling's Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears. (Pictures on Thingverse, try the links) The first because the filament was getting stuck and the second as others have reported that the

    by CraigRK (noreply@blogger.com) at April 26, 2012 06:16 AM

    April 24, 2012

    MakerGear - Frontpage

    Do u want 2 c my SketchUp design?!?!?



    My back is sore...hands are black...mouth tastes like metal from leaning over a lathe prototyping parts...came inside sat down...stumbled upon this. Totally made my day :) Great Job!!

    by Rick Pollack at April 24, 2012 10:29 PM

    La Grotte Du Barbu

    A vendre: iPhone4 & Canon XM2

    Alors je sais je suis un gros vilain, déjà beaucoup de temps entre les épisodes, mais ne vous inquiétez pas ça arrive, il y a deux épisodes en cours de montage et deux autres en cours de tournage, donc d’ici pas longtemps vous pourrez vous faire une orgie de barbitude…

    En ce moment je range, je classe, et j’essayes de me débarrasser des choses que j’utilise peu ou pas, d’ici peu il y’a aura un post où je vais donner des choses, mais d’abord je commence par les deux éléments que j’aimerais tenter de revendre (et puis aussi c’est la crise tout ça et faut que je fasse un peu de brouzouffes pour pouvoir me racheter un matos).

    iPhone4
    Avendre iphone4
    Il est beau, il est joli, il marche encore super bien… mais je me suis acheté un nouveau téléphone sous Android (le Samsung Galaxy 2 pour ne pas le citer) et donc mon ancien téléphone fait doublon… et je le vends entre 50 et 75 euros
    Il est fourni avec deux merveilleux autocollants au dos (celui de PyrateByran et Arduino) le chargeur, un câble USB en plus et le casque d’origine qui marche plus trop trop bien, mais quand même un peu.
    Le téléphone sera complètement pipé et fonctionne sous Orange avec un carte mini SIM, mais au besoin je peux le faire delocker
    [Edit]Bon à priori l’iPhone4 est vendu…[/Edit]

    Canon XM2
    Avendre xm2
    La caméra mythique de LaGrotteDuBarbu celle par laquelle la barbitude est arrivée est elle aussi à vendre.
    Toujours en très bon état, elle marche avec des cassettes mini-DV ou via Firewire directe sur votre ordinateur.
    Ce n’est pas de la HD mais du PAL, mais c’est de la très bonne qualité (et largement suffisant pour le web)
    Il est fourni avec plein de trucs:
    - 2 cables firewire
    - la batterie (qui tient encore environ 45 minutes)
    - le chargeur
    - la télécommande (et oui il y a une télécommande)
    - pleins d’autres câbles (s-video, usb, etc…)
    - et même si le futur acquéreur le veux, un sac de transport que même qu’il est vachement bien
    - le prix est fixé à 500 euros, à discuter, je suis prêt aussi à l’échanger contre un GoPro HD2

    Voilà, pour ceux qui veulent des précisions ou sont intéressés, ils peuvent me contacter sur lagrottedubarbu@gmail.com avec dans le sujet “iphone4″ ou “xm2″

    Que la barbitude soit avec vous… encore désolé pour le retard dans les épisodes, mais promis ça arrive pour bientôt

    by babozor at April 24, 2012 10:12 AM

    April 23, 2012

    AaronEiche.com

    A little shipping experiment

    Have you ever wondered about the practicality of shipping costs? Private vs Federal? I have, and last week I took some time and money to figure out what that difference might actually be. It didn’t really start out as an experiment, but I thought I’d give it a shot anyway.

    On Thursday, Apr 12, I ordered an item from Adafruit Industries, one of my go to places for electronics. To present some perspective, I live in Oregon, so the package is going to have to get all the way across the United States to get to me.

    My first order weighed in at 0.64 lbs, and I chose to go with the recommended shipper, UPS. Figuring that I didn’t want to spend too much on shipping, I went with UPS Ground and was told it would be 3-7 days. The package shipped out on the 13th.

    The following week, I realized there were a few other things I wanted, and my inner lazy scientist decided to try a little experiment. According to UPS, My package would be arriving on Friday, Apr 20th.

    I placed another order, this time on Apr 16th. I gave this one to USPS Priority Mail. The package was 1.34 lbs. This one took a few days to actually get shipped, And went out on Apr 18th.
    My experiment was relatively simple: Who’s the quicker shipper in the same relative time/cost frame?

    Here are the results:

    Box Weight Method Shipped Arrived Shipping Cost
    Order #1  0.64 lbs UPS Ground April 13 April 20 (7 Days) $9.78
    Order #2  1.34 lbs USPS Priority Mail April 18 April 21 (3 Days) $12.15

    Now, granted that the second package was 3/4 of a lbs heavier than the first, so the price was $3 more. Using Adafruit’s cart shipping estimator, if I’d done order #1 through the USPS, it would have cost me ~$8.05 for Priority mail.

    If I had more cash to spend I would do some more thorough experimenting. My conclusion is pretty simple: The United States Postal Service offers a really really dang good deal. Moreso, UPS has an incentive to not get the package where it’s going as quickly. The USPS is going to your house 6 days a week. UPS or FedEx are only going to show up if they already have your money. USPS gets the package to you faster because they already have a lot of mail going your direction anyway. They’re not going to go out of their way to get the package to you faster, but they’re spending the money on the plane, the processing, and the truck already. UPS on the other hand wants you to know that your package could have arrive in  3 days instead of 7, or 2, or 1. They can make it happen, for a price.

    UPS and FedEx are decent services, but if you can wait a couple of days USPS is where it’s at.

    Contrary to popular belief, the Postal service is not subsidized with federal tax dollars. Your mileage may vary, but if I’m footing the bill I think I might be sending a few more things through USPS.

    by Aaron Eiche at April 23, 2012 06:26 PM

    April 22, 2012

    HydraRaptor

    Ooze free unattended start

    Normally plastic oozes from the nozzle during warm up due to thermal expansion and gravity. It is then necessary to prime the extruder by running it for a few seconds to fill up the now empty barrel. Any oozed or extruded plastic then needs to be removed, typically with tweezers, before the build can start.

    This procedure is inconvenient because it means you have to stay with the machine during the warm up sequence rather than simply starting a build and letting it get on with it. I discovered a simple solution which I now use on my Mendel and Mendel90.

    I remove any filament hanging from the nozzle while it is cold and then start the machine and leave it. My software moves the nozzle to the front edge of the bed and parks it 0.05mm above the surface. It then warms up the extruder and the bed. As soon as the plastic starts to ooze from the nozzle it meets the relatively cold bed and sets. That seals the nozzle and prevents and more ooze. I leave the small gap to ensure the bed does not take heat away from the nozzle.

    When the bed and extruder reach their operating temperatures the software waits for two minutes to allow the nozzle to expand to its full length, otherwise I find the first layer height is inconsistent. The extruder is then run for a couple of seconds to prime it before doing a rapid move 50mm along the edge of the bed to wipe it. It then lifts to 1mm and moves to the start of the build. I always start that with a blob and an outline.

    Here is a video of the sequence on my Mendel90:



    So now I can start my machines and leave them to do their own thing. I use Python scripts but it should be easy to do the same thing in G code. The technique works with PLA as well as ABS shown above.

    by nophead (noreply@blogger.com) at April 22, 2012 12:38 PM

    April 21, 2012

    Unfold ~fab

    Road to better paste extrusion, episode 1: Recap

    Hello all, an awful lot of time past since the last meaningful post at Unfold Fab but fear not we have continued experimenting and printing lots of ceramics.

    In a series of posts I will try to recap and document all the experiments we've done in the last 2 years in order to try and get a reliable and usable paste extruder. I just never found the time to put the notes, sources and thoughts on virtual paper, you know that feeling don't you? Ed. took me again couple of weeks to wrap this one up :)

    A year ago I started documenting this process also on the RepRap wiki (after a friendly push from Adrian B.) so I will try to update that page also as much as possible. Some content from that page will also be recycled here. You can find the Ceramic_Extrusion page on the RepRap wiki. But anyone, feel free to also jump in and edit that page.

    So why 'better' paste extrusion? Whats wrong with the method we used here in our studio (Unfold) since day one and in fact are still using most of the time today?

    It might be good to revisit the beginning...

    When I started researching methods to print clay with DIY 3d printers in late 2008 there where basically two printer options, Fab@Home or RepRap. The Fab@Home was ready for my intended use since its default extrusion method used a syringe to extrude silicone. But it was, and still is, a rather expensive machine (close to 3000$ in early 2009). The choice for RepRap was based on price and maybe more importantly on its community. RepRap had a vibrant community, that exploded exponentially over time while Fab@Home didn't (well, doesn't) feel like moving a lot. I got into contact with Erik de Bruijn (now Ultimaker) and he kindly introduced me into all things Reprap at the fantastic Protospace Fablab, there he showed me his darwin machine made from cast parts manufactured by Bits from Bytes. I was never interested in building a machine from scratch because I wanted to work WITH, not ON a 3d printer and so decided to go for a kit. Bits from Bytes had just announced their Rapman kit, to my knowledge the first complete RepRap derived kit which included everything to start immediately, so I instantly pre-ordered one of the first handful.

    And because clay doesn't come in 3mm filament, so the quest for an extruder started.

    Claystruder 0 (Stepper Driven Plunger)
    This extruder is based on the principle of a plunger being driven down a syringe barrel using a (stepper) motor. Since Fab@Home used this principle it sounded smart to start here. This can be done either with an expensive linear stepper motor like on the Fab@Home Model 1 Syringe Tool or with a more standard motor and gears. Examples of the later are the Fab@Home Model 2 Syringe Tool, a very early Syringe Pump Prototype by Adrian Bowyer, Zach Hoeken's Frostruder MK1 or Viktor's (VMX) Syringe Tool.
    This design never left my drawing and cardboard mockup phase because around that time I met with Bre Pettis in New York right after they launched Makerbot. He described that the Frostruder MK1 was a dead end for Makerbot and that they did some experiments with air pressure to frost cupcakes which looked rather promising. Also around that time Unfold got a commission from Art Centre Z33 to create an installation (L'Artisan Electronique) in which a ceramic printer would play a major part.
    So I skipped the Stepper Driven Plunger and jumped straight onto the air pressure wagon. So we actually never had any experience using this 'direct drive' type of extruder on clay paste. Something I feel I need to revisit, even just for the sake of comparison. But more on that in a later post I am sure.

    Advantages
    -This system is compatible with most software, firmware and electronics in use on Rep(st)Raps due to the use of a stepper motor. With some calibration and fiddling with Skeinforge settings this could be a drop in replacement for the plastic extruder.
    -It extrudes a fixed and predictable quantity of paste with each revolution of the stepper.
    Disadvantages
    -The mechanical bulk and size of the system, assembly height is at least double of syringe length making it rather impractical for larger volumes especially if your printhead is on a moving XY carriage.
    -Rather inflexible in syringe sizes.
    -According to some sources who tried this system, issues with start/stops and oozing I believe.
    -Generally its also not really a good idea to control your extrusion by pushing the whole stock of material from behind, this becomes especially hard when trying to scale this system up to the >100cc syringe range. Also if you go to larger syringes the diameter of your plunger gets larger and it becomes harder to extrude the same small amount as precisely as in a system with a small diameter plunger.
    -A rather large force is needed when extruding really viscous clay.


    Claystruder 1.x (Time-Pressure Valve)
    Based on Zach Hoeken's Frostruder MK2, the time-pressure valve based Claystruder 1 (and 1.5) is the printhead that we used extensively for almost two years to successfully print earthenware and porcelain ceramic objects and is still the tool for no fuss printing but it has major drawbacks, especially one… But first the basic of this system. Instead of a mechanical plunger, you use timed pulses of air pressure to drive the material out of the syringe hence in the industry this is called a Time-Pressure Valve. Mechanically its a dead simple system (apart from the needed source of compressed air). With the use of one double action 3/2 solenoid valve or two 2/2 single action ones you can switch the air pressure on and off from your controller if it has a free port for it. Our Rapman controller has two AUX ports switchable via Gcode but on the software side there is no real support for it in Skeinforge.



    Because we where initially a little to lazy to figure out how to add all the M-codes in the Gcode file automatically we evolved into continuous single line printers (more poetically: 'one liners'). I added an ON Gcode in the beginning and an OFF at the end, for the rest of the print it's actually continuously extruding. On later extruders we completely omitted the solenoid and just plug-in the air at the right moment. KISS all the way :). For someone handy with scripting this should be easily solvable and I think it should be rather easy to customize Makerbot's frostruding scripts that post-process Gcode but we just found interesting ways to design around the issue and work with continuous prints and somehow it feels more natural to do this for me and actually design for the process (works nicely for plastics too when printing at 0,5mm). Will post more on that in the future. This also makes sense because clay prints are much more sensitive towards start/stop actions and the speed/direction of non printing moves. The print stays highly plastic during the whole print job and some ooze on your nozzle can easily disrupt a print when the head travels over already printed lines. Switching air pressure behind a body of clay does also not result in reliable repeatable material flow rates.


    But there are also designs for objects on the drawing board at the moment that really need an extruder that can be turned on/off reliably so therefore we keep on searching for one.

    In the meanwhile I made some improvements to the system since the Claystruder 1.1 version I posted on Thingiverse. The main one being the decoupling of the nozzle (a polyprop tapered tip) and the syringe. This simple change solves the issues with swapping syringes on long prints. If you have the nozzle attached to the syringe directly, like on the Frostruder, each time you want to swap a syringe you also remove and refit the nozzle with it and its very hard to get that syringe+nozzle back in the exact same spot again. Your nozzle is not often straight so even a slight rotation can put it a millimeter off. So if you continue your print (on Rapman its fairly easy to pause and restart a print) it will continue in a different spot. The solution is easy, make sure your nozzle stays in its place on the print head carriage when you remove the syringe. I use a small luer-lock male-female extension bit (from my favorite source) that is glued in the printhead (a simple mount). The nozzle is fixed to one end and the syringe screws in the back. This feature should be part of any paste extruder that uses syringes since it solves a lot of trouble with multi-syringe prints.

    Luer-Lock Syringe + Female/Male adapter + Tapered Tip

    Claystruder 1.5, bottom and top halves 

    There is also a set of windows in the barrel holder that allow you to guard the level better.

    Claystruder 1.5, paste level window 

    Claystruder 1.5, tip mount

    For this extruder I also designed a syringe adapter head that can be easily twisted on syringes and can withstand (depending on print quality) pressure up to 6 bar by adding bolts and washers as reinforcement. This file can be found on thingiverse here and is usable for many applications, it's also a much better replacement for the awkward system with screws on the Frostruder. Warning! I have operated this part and standard medical syringes at pressures up to 6 bar without issues but I guess this is close to the limit. Your millage may vary and I am not responsible if stuff explodes and harms you, your family, your dog or anything else.

    Syringe Adapter Head on Makerbot

    Syringe Adapter Head

    This Claystruder is simpler than the quick and dirty first version and also more modular so that the parts like the adapter head can be used in other applications/ extruders. You can find the files here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21788. At the moment there is no place for a solenoid because we don't use them but maybe I find time to add it in the same modular fashion.


    In older BfB firmware one was able to on-the-fly adjust the print speed (not extruder RPM), this was very handy to adjust for material flow changes but unfortunately that feature has gone in recent BfB FW and my pleas to add it again are not heard. The old firmwares were too buggy in SD card reading etc, some machines refused to run on old FW without dreadful resets. So now the only way to compensate is to adjust pressure which is not as easy, especially when lowering the pressure it can take a few minutes for the pressure to lower in the system. I bought high quality pressure regulators which are much better than the ones on most (cheap) compressors. You can also place them much closer to your machine and it allows (the reason I got them in the first place) to run multiple printers from one source of compressed air. By the way, you use so few air that we managed to do a whole one week workshop with 15 students on a single charge of a large compressor.


    Pressure Regulators


    Two machines printing (nr 3 visible on the left)

    Large print

    So the good and bad points of the time-pressure method:

    Advantages
    -Simple straight forward design, the ease of construction of the extruder.
    -Nearly instantaneous start/stop capability.
    -Easy to clean.
    -The extrusion is pulsation free in contrast with many other potential systems that use a pump.
    Disadvantages
    -Incompatibility with most RepRap electronics, Gcode processors etc which is a big issue but not impossible to solve.
    -Air compressor or other source of compressed air needed.
    -On/off control of the extruder by switching the air pressure is unreliable, a solution here would be to instead of switching the air pressure behind the material to control the material flow at the nozzle and leave pressure constant. In industry various valves are available that do just this and these could be easy to replicate. F@H's valve tool has a simple method to do this by using an off the shelf valve between the syringe and the nozzle (added bonus is the decoupling that I mentioned earlier), also the vintage RepRap Support Extruder 1.0 uses a similar method.
    -Non-metered, the big issue. The problem with a Time-Pressure Valve system is that it depends on many variables to keep a repeatable and predictable flowrate. The main variables are pressure and material viscosity and the combination of both (in addition to friction of plunger, changing material level in the syringe etc etc. Read here for example) gives you certain flow rate. Flow rate = Material Viscosity + Air Pressure. So if your materials viscosity changes only slightly you need to compensate that with higher or lower pressure. We tried many things and found many ways to improve it one way or another and one could even program some of the parameters in the system to compensate for some known effects. But this would also mean that you need virgin syringes each time because a plunger acts differently in a used syringe, that the consistency has to be exactly the same each time and throughout the entire batch etc etc. Conditions you can get in an industrial setup but not really RepRap style. Other solution I thought of could be to meter your flow rate at the nozzle and adjust the air pressure based on that, one could use various types of flow meters but digital air pressure regulators that would need to act on those readings are rather expensive parts. You could also alter the print speed based on the flow rate within a certain 'workable' range, not to fast/slow. But basically we never found a way to get metered flow rates and from all my reading I think that it is impossible to solve this elegantly in an air pressure controlled system. Therefore unguarded operation is no option and one needs a trained eye and hand to get to the results that we have here, this is a serious drawback when you want to do production like we do.

    Next episode: Auger Valves, learning from industrial solutions... I'll promise to make it shorter than this one :)

    ps. you can also follow our design studio Unfold on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Unfold/138586236204562

    by Unfold Fab (noreply@blogger.com) at April 21, 2012 10:26 PM

    Grass Roots Engineering

    Damn Right

    The third industrial revolution

    You can read the Economist report here.

    I know it has been quite a while since my last post, but I have been very busy {as most people are :) }. I will get to answering the ton of emails in my inbox soon, as well as writing new posts.

    by Jim at April 21, 2012 07:39 PM

    Worldgnat

    The Student Diet: Lose Weight, Eat Wrong, and Get Out of Shape

    There are lots of silver bullet diet blog posts out there, but as we all should know by now, silver bullet cures don’t exist. However, I recently discovered a MIRACLE DIET CURE that will help you LOSE WEIGHT and LOOK GOOD and all that. Here it is. It’s called the “Student Diet,” or as I [...]

    by Peter Davoust at April 21, 2012 07:15 PM

    Wooden Mendel

    Gantry Support Howto

    How to add highly effective yet easily removed support structures to your objects.

    The Object

    The Object

    The Problem

    Definitely needs support!

    The Solution

    1. Add some bridges. Bridges print beautifully, and when they're only 1-2 layers thick/wide are very easy to cut through.
      Added Bridges
    2. Build a gantry up to the bridges. Add some superstructure, thin walls will likely deform when we bridge if built this high by themselves!
      Gantry w/ superstructure
    3. Add a foot to the gantry so it doesn't fall over while being printed
      Added Foot. Note cut-out around object itself.
    4. Gantry Support ready to go!
      Gantry Support
    5. Print!

    Post-Print Removal

    Success! Cutting Bridge Gantry Separated Cleaning Bridge Remnants

    Result

    Cleaned Supported Section Gantry Now Do The Other Side Even Cleaner No evidence of support on resulting surface

    Closing Thoughts

    Gantry support is a highly effective method of adding support.
    • It can effectively support sections where llamella support might blemish a surface.
    • It can support larger sections high up an object using little material where llamella support would use a large volume of material
    • It can be stacked to get support into particular sections - simply make an intermediate bridge, and build another gantry on your bridge!
    • For irregular shapes (eg belly of venetian lion), one could try using openscad's projection(), minkowski() and extrude() to create a profile-fitting bridge

    This method is not suitable for:

    • Irregular or organic supported surfaces where a bridge won't support everything, eg underneath mushrooms.
    • Areas that have no space around them for gantries and bridges, or which would be inaccessible with a blade post-print
    • Probably several other circumstances that I haven't thought of yet!

      I look forward to seeing your gantry supports on thingiverse!

    by Triffid Hunter (noreply@blogger.com) at April 21, 2012 01:44 AM

    April 20, 2012

    Erik's Blog: Discussing open source innovation, personal fabrication and a new and better world

    New developments at Ultimaker!

    We've been really busy with many developments at Ultimaker! Most notably: the Ultimaker Controller, reducing lead times, adding individual 3D printer parts and lowering the overall shipping costs. Also, we're releasing an improved version of ReplicatorG. Test versions are available at software.ultimaker.com/beta.



    Together with Julius, I made this cool video of the UltiController:

    by Erik de Bruijn (nospam@example.com) at April 20, 2012 01:44 PM

    Bodge It Quick Rep Strap Bertha Project

    quick pictorial update Test Jig for BIQ_SanguinoCNC /Laser PCB

    Over view of the electronics on the test Jig

    Sorry not much time to type we are at Fablabs 2nd birthday event this weekend.
    Comments at the preview last night said I wasn't blogging  enough any more..

    Oh its quite cool that the first build of the PCB worked  !!!
    Its running using a slightly changed version of Marlin firmware @ 16mhz need to find a 20Mhz boot ROM for Sanguino or figure out what's wrong with my environment settings as Make file wont make! my altered
    boot ROM code.



    Side View of the test Jig
    Showing 50V 500W PSU to drive the 4.2A Stepper motor

    ie 2 Phases at 4.2A = 8.4A hence a 9.9A PSU at 50V



    Close up of bodged together rev counter

    by BodgeIt (noreply@blogger.com) at April 20, 2012 04:21 AM