Cherry picked Planet Reprap - A RepRap blog aggregator

June 29, 2016

New reprap images on Photobucket

Thingiverse - Newest Things

Connection for irrigation pipe 16 mm

Connecting to join two irrigation pipes 16mm in diameter.

I have designed with Freecad.

by plinaresb at June 29, 2016 11:12 AM

Seriously Pro SP3 Board Cover (Simple)

This is a simple cover to protect the top of the Seriously Pro SP3 flight controller. We are using one in a build series on the Painless360 YouTube channel and wanted something to cover the top of the board to protect it from dirt and flying debris.

Posted here in case someone else can use it!

by Painless360 at June 29, 2016 10:50 AM

Thingiverse - Newest Derivatives

Mount Frame for Raspberry Pi 7in Touchscreen Enclosure

This is the re-position of the display mounting orientation by 180 degree, so there is no too short of flexible cable issue. The display mounting off center issue is also fixed.

You need to use correct size of drill bits to bore the screw holes to fit your own screw.

by bato_wang at June 29, 2016 07:18 AM

hwk-290 box for Stanley Deep Organizer

This container can hold a HWK-290, it's maneuver dial, plastic base, plastic stands, the cardboard templates for the ship, and all tokens needed to play with the ship. It may fit the HWK-290 ship. This container is 1/3 height, and 2x2 on the stanley grid.

I've merged and to contain the HWK-290 ship, I hope don't mind

I've never printed it yet so I'm not sure it works, but it should

by troll90 at June 29, 2016 07:03 AM

June 28, 2016

Tales of a modern life

Ultimaker II filament sensor and remote control using Raspberry Pi

The Plan

This is still an idea, growing in my head. I don't know if or when I'll build it.

I want to attach a Raspberry Pi 3 to my Ultimaker II extended.
Obviously with Wifi and USB it will have
  • a camera, watching the print
  • a GPIO pin an Octoprint API call telling the Ultimaker to pause the print (via a tiny firmware modification)
I will replace the small, plastic filament idler pulley on the back of the maching (opposite to the extruder drive mechanism) and replace it with a ball bearing and 2 sensors
  • a trivial 2 bit rotary encoder to meassure the speed and amount of the filament and auto-pause if no filament is transported anymore
  • a load cell with a Hx711 module to tell how much pulling force is applied and auto-pause on no force = filament empty and too much force = something blocks the filament from moving
The too much force - part means it will also detect obstacles that would otherwise lead to underextrusion because filament is still being transported but way less then there should be.
  • a second load cell in the modified "Low friction UM2 spoolholder" will meassure the weight of the spool and thus tell me how much filament is left.
  • the modification is a 12-20cm arm with the load cell attached


  1. DONE: Raspberry Pi with Octoprint installed
  2. DONE: Designed parts for first prototype (using only Encoder and Dummy-Load Cells)
  3. DONE: Rotary Encoder arrived
  4. DONE: Pinout specified
  5. Work In Progress: Waiting for load cells and Hx711 from China
  6. Work In Progress: Test rotary encoder
  7. TODO: Write the software
  8. TODO: design modified "608 mount" to weight the remaining filament


The software

I'm planning on having a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint as the central controller.
The advantage is, that via the Octoprint API, I can detect if filament is supposed to move at the moment and issue a pause command without hacking the firmware and dual-using one of the homing switches as an E-Stop.

The parts

New method (using Octoprint API)
Old method (using GPIO signal to pause the printer):

by Marcus Wolschon ( at June 28, 2016 08:53 PM

Getting started with the Raspberry Pi 3 OctoPrint Bundle

After upgrading to the low friction spool holder,
I just got myself the Raspberry Pi 3 OctoPrint Bundle from Watterott.
It shall be the center component of my Ultimate Filament sensor.

Since it doesn't come with any instructions, here is what you need to do:


Don't plug it in yet!
Insert the SD card into a regular computer and edit the file octopi-network.txt .

Then insert the 2 transparent elements into the 2 holes near the micro USB socket.
(Yes, there are 2 plugs for 4 holes and no instructions.)

Now insert the Raspberry Pi and then insert the SD card.
The contacts should face upwards.
(It is near impossible to the the cards out again.)

After switching it on, you can connect to it via http://octopi.local .


You can also access the raspberry via SSH
ssh pi@octopi.local
The default password is "raspberry.
The SD card is mounted as /boot
The OctoPrint config file is at "/home/pi/.octoprint/config.yaml"
You can restart the server via "sudo /etc/init.d/octoprint restart"

If your Wifi access point via
sudo sudo iwlist wlan0 scanning | grep ESSID
can't be seen by Linux, run
sudo raspi-config 
and select "5 internationalization options" -> "I4 select Wifi locale"
to enable the Raspberry to see all Wifi channels that are legal in your country.

The Raspian I got was very old. I had to provide Internet via Ethernet and do
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get dist-upgrade
then it was able to see Wifi networks on Channel 40 (5GHz) and 12+13 (2.4GHz).

GPIO fun 

While at the shell, you can have fun with the GPIO pins in Bash.
Sadly you can't set the pull-up resistors from the shell.
However my image came with WiringPi already installed.
It doesn't have a "--help" or a man page on the Pi itself, so here are the basics:
  • gpio readall
  • gpio mode (pin) in/out
  • gpio mode (pin) up/down/tri         (set pull up resistors)
  • gpio read (pin)
  • gpio write (pin) 0/1
  • gpio wfi (pin) rising/falling/both    (non-busy waiting for a state change)
  • (more)
  • (reading multiple gpios )
  • ...including timeout via read -t (seconds) || echo "timeout detected"  ...still in bash ;) 


Sorry, there is no hole for the Raspberry Pi camera. The best place to cut one is probably on the side (so you don't damage the cool logo), above the camera connector.

This longer cable (Reichelt) may be helpful.

Cura slicing

Luckily the Bundle comes with thje CuraEngine plugin preinstalled. So slicing it not much of a problem.You can imort your existing 15.x profiles (but not 2.1.1 profiles) in Settings->Plugins->CuraEngine->import profile.

BTW, there are "send to Octoprint" plugins for Cura on the desktop!

Ultimaker II setup

The Ultimaker series is not supported out of the box.
  • It seems you have to set one profile for each nozzle diameter. Sorry.
Settings->printer profile:

Profile  (UM2 extended)

  • Color: default
  • (X) Rectangular 
  • Origin: lower left
  • X: 223mm
  • Y: 223mm
  • Z: 315mm
  • (X) heated bed

Profile  (UM2 go)

  • Color: default
  • (X) Rectangular 
  • Origin: lower left
  • X: 120mm
  • Y: 120mm
  • Z: 115mm
  • (X) heated bed

Profile  (UM2)

  • Color: default
  • (X) Rectangular 
  • Origin: lower left
  • X: 223mm
  • Y: 223mm
  • Z: 205mm
  • (X) heated bed


After "after abort of a print job" enter:
;fans off
;extruder heater off
M104 S0
;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
M140 S0
;metric values
;absolute positioning
;move Z and X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 X0 Y0
;relative positioning
;retract the filament
G1 E-5 F300
;steppers off
;absolute positioning
Deactive Settings->Functions->SD-card support (else it may print everything on the card without asking)


in Cura set: GCode Type = RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter)
start.gcode (first line must be blank)

;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21        ;metric values
G90        ;absolute positioning
M82        ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107       ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops
G0 X20 Y20 F{travel_speed} ;bring extruder to the front
G1 Z25.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 25mm
G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E25              ;extrude 25mm of feed stock
G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
end.gcode (first line must be blank)
;End GCode
M107 ;fans off
M104 S0                     ;extruder heater off
M140 S0                     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
G28 Z0 X0 Y0 ;move Z and  X/Y to min endstops
G91                                    ;relative positioning
G1 E-15 F300 ;retract the filament
M84                         ;steppers off
G90                         ;absolute positioning

Ultimaker II attachment


It looks like self adhesive Velcro is the best option to attach the box to the back of your Ultimaker II.


Having a Raspberry Pi permanently connected to your printer, that has ample 5V and 12V, it is kind of silly to power it via a separate wall wart. So we should see about powering it from the Ultimaker.


by Marcus Wolschon ( at June 28, 2016 08:11 PM

Printing some actual things, and some small dowels

Printing things! Did a test run of the adapter part of a lens extension piece ( and it fit just nicely. Now I can print the whole thing.

Decided to try out Cura for slicing. A simple test cube looked mostly good, except one corner ended up sort of sliced off. And then the piece came loose when doing the top layers, due to forgetting the hair spray. Cura doesn't allow higher temperature at the first layers, and is more aggressive with the fan.

Repeating with hair spray worked, but there was no noticable difference. I don't feel like throwing $150 at Simplify3D right yet.

Next attempt: Full height macro extension piece. First one clogged up quickly, but after a quick atomic, it went nicely. Suggests that my Z offset and/or initial layer height is too high.

The difference in magnification is noticable (note these are handheld shots, so not super sharp):

Test piece at maximum magnification with EF-S 60mm f/2.8
Same test piece, same lens, with extension tube
Over several prints, some of which jammed early on, I have come to the conclusion that the right Z height is critical. I need the nozzle low enough that I get proper adhesion, but high enough that the filament can squeeze out without too much backpressure, or the resulting grinding of filament will cause the hobbed bolt to slip more and more over time.

Initial layer squeezed out so tight it turns white
I printed a sample hinge for the piano, but smaller than necessary so it didn't hinge well.

I printed a battery dispenser for tracked charged/discharged Eneloops. It came loose from the bed while printing, and when moving across a slightly lifted layer would make a chack-chack-chack sound. Now I know what that is, at least, but the lifting is problematic. In the end, it caused a jam, though the piece ended up OK:

As part of printing a dish rag holder, I experimented with making simple dowels. A good test, for it takes only 10 minutes to print a short pair, and it's obvious whether it works.

0.2mm layer height, outer walls first: 5.80-6.05 mm male/5.30-5.40 female
0.2mm layer height, not outer walls first: 5.85-60.5 mm male/5.05-5.20 female
0.15mm layer height, outer walls first: 5.60 - 5.80 mm male/5.25-5.35 female
0.1mm layer height, outer walls first: 5.65 - 5.90 mm male/5.25-5.45 female

Trying with perimeter adjustments of 80% exterior/90% interior. Also slowly moved the Z offset up to +0.1mm, since the first layer still got squeezed enough to be white, which I take as a bad sign.

0.1mm layer height, outer walls first, 80%/90% ext/int: 5.85 - 6.10 mm male/4.75-5.00 female

This also made the sides of both pieces look funny, with extra extrusion on the top part of the female piece, and some gappiness on the male piece. Probably not a good adjustment to make. Going back to default on those, and 0.15 mm layer height, but then (just on a lark) with 0.9 extrusion multiplier.

0.15mm layer height, outer walls first, .9 extr. mult.: 5.45 - 5.55 mm male/5.42-5.47 female

That's an incredible improvement! These actually fit together with just a bit of squeezing. And they look good, too, except for rather large flanges at the bottoms:

by Lars Clausen ( at June 28, 2016 06:23 AM

June 23, 2016

La Grotte Du Barbu

LaGrotteDuBarbu – Episodes 146 et 148 – RouleauKiGratte partie 1 & 2

Comme c’est mon anniversaire, je release les 2 épisodes qui se suivent sur la conception et construction d’un dévidoir à rouleau de papier / toile abrasive que les amis de Leman m’ont envoyés


Flattr this!

by babozor at June 23, 2016 05:33 AM