Cherry picked Planet Reprap - A RepRap blog aggregator

December 18, 2017

New reprap images on Photobucket

DIY 3D Printer and Reprap

Best 3d printer_zpsuoctq7hr.jpg
DIY 3D Printer and Reprap - Best 3d printer_zpsuoctq7hr.jpg

We are one stop destination for cheap 3D printer, 3D printer kit, Reprap printers and DIY 3D printer. Read latest reviews and buy DIY 3D printer and kits.

by star133 at December 18, 2017 01:12 AM

Thingiverse - Newest Things

Sponge holder


Sponge holder. This is a simple sponge holder using suction cups. This design prints fast and with least support.

by santababa at December 18, 2017 12:11 AM

December 17, 2017

Thingiverse - Newest Derivatives

Pen Holder Remix


This is a remix of the pen holder for the ANET A8.
I made it so it can replace or be connected to the hot end fan.
This might work on the stock ANET configuration but I made it for the E3D carriage.

I will adjust it in the future so it will align with the hot end so you can print bigger pictures.

Use this to convert SVGs to STL files to print: https://rawgit.com/ryancalme/svg-to-stl/master/SVGtoSTL.html

You can also make a one layer thick stl, turn on zhop when going over empty spaces, and then export the file to print.

by madmodder123 at December 17, 2017 11:04 PM

Reprap development and further adventures in DIY 3D printing

Christmas Advent 3D Printing #Day 16 Advice using Recreus FilaFlex elastic TPU

December advent calendar - modular Christmas tree
3D Printing advice #Day 16

For the background and introduction - Day #1 Post click here

Christmas Advent 2017 Download on Thingiverse here - designed by Tom Van den Bon  With some help for each day by the South African Makers team.


It's time for Day #16

Day 16 gift is designed by Candice Howe -  Is 'mistletoe' - but it's actually holly :)


Holly ;) printed in Filaflex green and red flexible TPU filament. Day 16 tree in Polyalchemy Elixir.

 I was holding out for a good gift to use a flexible material, and this is as close as I can get for now.

 Just in case we don't get any other models that lend themselves to flexi-filament, here we go.

Filaflex filament in wonderful colours - it's a really great material to have around for any bendy projects.

Filaflex is my go-to flexible material - I really enjoy using it for so many great reasons.

TPU/TPE is also resistant to many chemicals and has very good wear resistance. If you want to make a living hinge, or a flexible 'anything' then Filaflex or a similar TPU/TPE material is the one to look out for.

You can use Filaflex for mold making (casting things like sugar, soap, chocolate) I made a Deathstar mold here also used it for making a long-lost chocolate bar mold here 

On to Day 16 - 

Is it mistletoe or holly?

Mistletoe has long rounded leaves and white berries, holly has sharp leaves and red berries.

It's holly. So I'm printing it in Green and red.

Super flexible and strong, you really can't tear this material or break it with your bear hands.

TPU is a wonderful material, especially to use in a 3D printer. It's by far able to produce models that are almost impossible to break apart - even on layer lines. Inter-layer bonding is 'amazing strong'!

You can even make things like shock-mount Tablet PC cases for kids.


Tap washers, motor shock-mounts, gaskets, flexible insoles, finger tips for robots, hinges for boxes and many soft finishes for products - Some of the most useful and long-lasting 'active parts' I have 3D Printed are made in Filaflex.

It's also possible to print with Filaflex directly onto fabric (t-shirts are popular) - you simply need to have a 3D printer without a moving bed, then lay across the fabric / t-shirt. When you print, do it a little distance away from the cloth, and pump up the print temperature, so it's almost a liquid (+260/275). then drop the temp back to a ~244 Degrees C level to complete the print.


Print advice - (Recreus FilaFlex elastic TPU)

What settings did you use? - I'll give you my best settings and tips for using Filaflex, but do be aware that it's such a soft material, every extruder - hot-end and printer is going to be slightly different.

If you look closely at the above image you will see a green 1.75mm Filaflex filament in the middle. This solid aluminium extruder block has a hole running down the middle for the soft Filaflex filament. The left hole is for the filament drive wheel, the slot on the right is a for a bearing idler. This is just about the perfect drive system for soft filaments like Filaflex.

Recreus also make their own extruder and hot-end systems for using Filaflex. I have used an older version, they are now at Version 3 - see here for more details.

Ideally you need a very short distance between the extruder drive gear and the end of the nozzle. If possible have the filament constrained all along the extruder-hot-end path.

Note :- do check the size of the filament, it's usually very consistent on a roll, but it can often be slightly under the 'normal' 1.75mm diameter (or 2.85mm average).

I often find a 1.69, 1.71, 1.73 etc. diameter on rolls, for me that seems to be normal, just remember to enter the real diameter in the slicer you are using.

You will need to experiment, but here is how I setup my 3D printers to extrude Filaflex (perfectly). I have spent a lot of time tuning this. YMMV.

  • Under rate the nozzle size a little. I use 0.4mm nozzle, but tell the slicer it's 0.38mm
  • Extrusion multiplier set to 1.03 (+3%)
  • Extruder retraction distance of around 3.8mm
  • Z-hop / Lift set to the print layer height.
  • Minimum of 4 x solid top and bottom layers (at 0.2mm each)
  • 140% width on first layer
  • First layer speed set to 55% of normal print speed.
  • 3 perimeter (shells)
  • Normally a 24% infill level on most parts.
  • 246 Degrees C first layer
  • 244 Degrees C all other layers
  • No heated bed.
  • Print at 38mm/sec print speed - for everything apart from support structures & first layer
  • Avoid crossing outline for travel moves (really important) keep the tool-head inside the model.
  • Experiment with Fan usage - I use 30% fan for most - only 100% for bridging.
  • Do NOT print directly onto a Buidtack print surface unless you want that part to be forever embedded into it...
  • Print on blue tape or with an interface layer of some description / glue / spray / magigoo. 
Good luck, it is awesome when/if you get it dialled into your 3D printer.


Why use it? - It's very, very flexible and strong. Recreus also now make different grades of soft and super-soft materials, so now you have even more choice.

Is it strong? - It can be stretched many times it's own length without breaking, stronger than rubber-bands. Layer bonding is insane, you can't really use self support material as you will never remove it.

Is it easy to use/print - With a good extruder and hot-end combination, yes it's really easy to use. with a 'bad' combination or in some bowden systems, especially 1.75mm, it's a total nightmare and can even be impossible to use.

You can however use the 2.85mm version in a bowden setup. I have used Filaflex in the BCN3D Sigma with very good results.

Do you have to dry it before/after use? - No - it's good as it is. I have never had to dry Filaflex. it's one of the most resilient materials in all conditions. I even had a test sample of filament outside for a few weeks, and it printed almost perfectly after a wipe down before use.

Do i need a 'special' nozzle? - No it's not abrasive at all.

Does it smell when printing? - No.

Does it come on a eco friendly spool? - No :(

Conclusion for Recreus Filaflex elastic TPU- I have tried many other flexible filaments, and this is the one I always use for every flexible project. It's just great.

Days 1 to 16 of the Advent Christmas Tree.

Day #16 is completed. My kids decided that so far, their best advent gift days have been Day 4, Day 8, Day 9 and Day 16.

I think the story here is about all the great uses you can have for flexible 3D Printing. You can do a lot of fun things, but it would not be right if I didn't mention projects like the great work eNable and Open-Bionics are doing. If you are not already aware, do please check them out.


One last thing I want to mention is the wonderful Gensole (Insole generator) by Gyrobot. Do give it a look if you are needing insoles, it's fantastic.

Join me next time for Day #17 (It looks like we will have poo, Christmas poo...)

Thanks for reading.

Rich.

Please join me on Twitter @RichRap3D

My profile and posts over on Google+

Files and designs shared on YouMagine

Files and designs shared on GitHub

Files and designs shared on Repables 

My Youtube channel is here, all 3D Printing and Hi-Def video content.

by Richard Horne (noreply@blogger.com) at December 17, 2017 08:12 PM

What's design ?

Opération Badgeons la Normandie

Ayant entendu parler de cet événement durant OctoberMake, je ne pouvais pas ne pas y aller :) Début de matinée, rappel rapide de la notion d'OpenBadge, l'événement étant destiné à priori à des gens en ayant déjà connaissance. On retrouve Serge Ravet dans les intervenants, toujours aussi appréciable (je vous encourage à revoir la 5ème vidéo "ORA : Open Recognition Alliance" tirée d'un

by Emmanuel Gilloz (noreply@blogger.com) at December 17, 2017 05:24 PM

L'achat en vrac gagne du terrain

Du moins j'en ai bien l'impression, par les articles que je lis ou qu'on m'envoie parfois sur le sujet. Ou bien simplement en voyant une boutique ouvrir dans le centre de la petite ville de Montaigu : D-Vrac. J'y suis passé hier, l'ambiance est chaleureuse, la propriétaire engagée, etc. J'en profite pour lui parler de mon projet d'emballage que j'avais imaginé un jour pour faciliter les achats

by Emmanuel Gilloz (noreply@blogger.com) at December 17, 2017 03:01 PM

December 16, 2017

Reprap development and further adventures in DIY 3D printing

Christmas Advent 3D Printing #Day 15 Advice using 3DFilaprint PLA and selecting material samples

December advent calendar - modular Christmas tree
3D Printing advice #Day 15

For the background and introduction - Day #1 Post click here

Last time - Day #14 Post (LEGO brick) was printed with a generic no-brand PLA and I discussed some of the factors to consider, when selecting no-brand 3D printing materials.

Christmas Advent 2017 Download on Thingiverse here - designed by Tom Van den Bon  With some help for each day by the South African Makers team.


It's time for Day 15 and I was expecting maybe an elf shoe? mouse in a boot?, because the tree shape was of a 'boot' but...

Day 15 gift is designed by Thomas Torr -  It's a Christmas? severed foot! - Okay then... that's cool.



I was involved in an interesting chat over on Twitter about sample filaments a few days back. That got me thinking about the suppliers of 3D Printing materials that stock a lot of different manufacturers, and also some of them that are happy to sell samples of materials for testing before you invest in a full roll of material.

One such company that I use here in the UK is 3DFilaprint, they also run a filament sample company called globalFSD.

Suppliers like 3DFilaprint (and there are many others around the world - PrintedSolid in the US for example) are great because they tend to stock a very wide range of materials, from many different manufacturers. When you only want to place one order, for just one or two rolls of a type/make/material it can be the perfect way to get everything you want in one go.

Back to the severed foot...

Because I'm British, and of an age when Monty Python was the best thing on television, I just take one look at the severed foot, and think of the iconic TV show, cult films (it's just a flesh wound / beware of the rabbit / bag of otters noses / dead parrot) Magic!


So for that reason I found some pink PLA filament from 3DFilaprint (Manufactured by RepRapper Tech). to print out the 'Severed foot' (Monty Python Foot).

This is the right way for suppliers to sell - partnerships and by listing the actual manufacturer.

Support material enabled for this one.

This was one that needed support material, rather than trying to cut up the model, I just enabled basic supports and printed it out in Pink PLA.

Excuse the 'green wart' on the heal of the foot, this was a blob from the previous green print.

The supports are simple to remove, just ease them off with needle-nose pliers.

A quick flame, and the support marks vanish.

You will usually get some bruise marks, but as I have shown before, just use a lighter flame over them (quickly) and they will vanish.


You should end up with a very nice print. (This was only 0.2mm layers, quick print and good finish).


Print advice - (sample filaments)

Here are few tips for using samples of filament - 

Should you buy samples? - Yes, samples can not always be given out for free by manufacturers, so it's a good idea to buy them if you can find any - one big problem is that samples are not usually made, manufacturers often prefer you to just buy a full roll. Samples allow you to test out the material on your machine, and play with some settings before you buy a full roll.

How much do you need as a sample? - This is a good discussion point, but in general I always want 20m of a filament material as a sample if I am going to invest time and effort in making a profile and perform a few small print tests.

I have been handed coils of ~5m lengths at shows, I tend to give them back. I have also been sent 6 inch 'samples' they are totally useless.

Should samples be loose, or on a small roll? - I actually prefer all sample filaments to be loose coils. And that's mostly how they usually come.

I do have a few 250g rolls of filament, that's fine, but if the reel is a silly size and I have no way to mount it, it tends to sit on a shelf rather than being tested.

Ideally they should be vacuum packed. I generally get loose / bagged samples, but some manufacturers (Polymaker, Proto-Pasta and Rigid Ink for example) supply samples in vacuum sealed bags with desiccant.
3DFilaprint sample

Polymaker mini 250g spool (with a true 50mm spool mount, great job)

Proto-Pasta vacuum packed sample :)

Rigid.ink Samples - also vacuum packed

Also look out fro samples that have a reasonable diameter. I try to get coils with a minimum 120mm diameter. Tighter coils often seem to cause all sorts of problems when testing a loose coil.

One of my all time favourite sample packs is still  the Faberdashery 10 x 10m colour packs - very large and easy to use coils, perfect for injecting a little colour - Like I did for the Day 4 lollipop!


ColorFabb also do great samples when you want to experiment.

How much should you pay - That probably depends on you. How much time it will save you? Do you want to try out something new? Do you already know what settings to use? Will you / would you probably buy a roll anyway?

I often buy 2 or three of the same sample, just to have a spare in case you need to use that material in the future.

Why don't more manufacturers make sample packs / multi-packs etc. - It takes a lot of effort and does not seem to be a thing manufacturers really want to do. - I hope that changes in the future.

Make sure you tell 3D Printing filament manufacturers that you want samples (20m+) and that it's worth paying for them. Maybe then if we all let them know, it'll start to happen more often.

More multi-colour / multi-material selection packs, are also something I'm sure more people would buy. It can cost hundreds of $£e to get every colour of a filament range, but a sample multi-pack could be the cost of one single reel.

There must be a market for sample packs / monthly boxes etc? - Yes, some suppliers offer a sample service, like GlobalFSD, supply samples of many types. Ridig.Ink offer a sample filament club (for £10 per month) and you may want to check out Makerbox, but I have not yet used their service.

And now for something completely different (Python)...

Sorry now for an update on Day 11 -rusting of the Potjie (cooking pot)

Superglue together before rusting (see below).

After rusting - looks like it's 100 years old.


Ready to cook up a warm winter stew.

It was dipped in vinegar, sale and oxi-action solution, damp paper towel in a glass ramekin.

Leave to rust for a few days.

Day #15 is completed. I now have my very own severed foot :) 

The story of the severed foot... yea, that's going to be an odd one to explain on a Christmas tree, but it's totally Python like and an interesting talking point... I'm off to join the Judean People's Front. Or is it the People's Front of Judea?

Join me next time for Day #16 - When I finally get to use some flexible filaments :)

Thanks for reading.

Rich.

Please join me on Twitter @RichRap3D

My profile and posts over on Google+

Files and designs shared on YouMagine

Files and designs shared on GitHub

Files and designs shared on Repables 

My Youtube channel is here, all 3D Printing and Hi-Def video content.

by Richard Horne (noreply@blogger.com) at December 16, 2017 07:28 PM