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May 27, 2017

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DIY 3D Printer and Reprap

Best 3d printer_zpsuoctq7hr.jpg
DIY 3D Printer and Reprap - Best 3d printer_zpsuoctq7hr.jpg

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by star133 at May 27, 2017 09:12 AM

Thingiverse - Newest Derivatives

Vase Micro Fidget Spinner

A smaller version of the full size vase fidget spinner. These use a MR105* or similar bearing (10mm diameter, 4mm height, 3-5mm bore). 623's* work a bit better for the outside bearings since they're heavier.

Printed in vase/spiral mode with a 0.4mm extrusion width.

The finger grips use 3mmx3mm cylinder magnets to stay in place.

Printed in Atomic Filament Translucent Aqua PLA and Filamentium Vertigo Gray* (thanks to Prusa Research for giving the Bay Area Reprap their leftover filament at the end of the Maker Faire).

*affiliate link

by walter at May 27, 2017 07:46 AM

Thingiverse - Newest Things

Anycubic Kossel helix calibration (X,Y & Z)

V1 Calibration Helix for Delta type printers consists of three cubes (5x5x10) mm and a hole in the center. Arranged the cubes to 120 degrees each. Lets know if the size of the pieces is correct as well as the concavity or convexity of the printing bed. The axes are identified with their letters and are at a distance of 50 mm radius

V2 Calibration Helix for Delta type printers consists of three cubes (5x5x10) mm and a cylinder in the center. Arranged the cubes to 120 degrees each. Lets know if the size of the pieces is correct as well as the concavity or convexity of the printing bed. The axes are identified with their letters and are at a different distance of 43 mm (Z), 42.0965 (Y & Z ).

by Chitokite at May 27, 2017 07:38 AM

Thingiverse - Newest Derivatives

Multi-Colour Jig Bracket/Joint

Got idea of making a modular expandable Multi-Colour Jig Bracket/Joint here by utilizing the existing screw holes. Can be expanded to how ever you want it to be.

This bracket are meant to be used for this

Designing a single jig with more than 2 inputs is not easy since we got to watch out for overhangs inside there that is unreachable while we had to maintain smooth passage for the filament to go through these jigs. Although it is kind of bulky, big and takes a lot of space, but this jig is flexible, can be switched to any extruder number you want.

Do NOTE that you need to retract even more on each stack and do help to test them out.

by sarf2k4 at May 27, 2017 04:51 AM

May 24, 2017

Lots of printing, now also with PETG

With proper X axis tension, the printer is happily printing. I left it run for hours while we were away for the Street Food Festival, and it was still running merrily when we came back.

This particular print was designed this morning to match our balcony bench's feet, so it can stand up more straight on the slanted balcony. I didn't incorporate the angle of the bench's feed, so it might not work well in the long run, but it works for now, and I don't want to do another print of that length without good reason.

I suspect the reason for the Z offset changes has less to do with the frame expanding and more with just the holders getting push a tiny bit up every print, more if the print warps. The offset is always increasing and then gets reset when I fiddle with it. If it was the temperature/humidity/pressure, it would be going more up and down. So I should try gently bonking down the two Z axis mounts to check if that keeps the calibration.

After my failure with the AA battery dispenser extension, I filed a bug against Slic3r - originally for failing to slice right, but it turned out the model was just broken. I changed the bug to suggest doing a better error message - "auto-repaired" sounds like it actually works, "attempted repaired" would be better. The discussion around this pointed me at, which offers repairing STLs for free. With that, the dispenser actually printed right:

I printed a little mount thing for putting up my name sign at work. Unfortunately, I'm not exactly sure where the name sign is.

I started printing a solder fume extractor, but it ate a lot more filament than I expected, I had to stop halfway through when my white filament ran out. Now I have a useless white thing.

This was also the largest rectangular thing I printed so far, at 13x13 cm, so I was extra careful to keep an eye on the clips on the side. The duct fan mount is just high enough that it doesn't hit the clips here. Oddly, the print wasn't really on the center of the bed, but towards the back:

I had a sample of PETG lying around from an earlier order from Since my white ran out. I figured it'd be a good time to try that. I did a Bugz because it's small and I had problems with it sticking together in PLA.

When that came out well (and was able to move), I did a McBenchy, of course, which came with a much better bow and almost-readable letters, but dangling filament atop the windows:

Nice overall, but some sagging at the window

Look at that nice, smooth bow

Still some gaps in the foredeck

Stringing in several places - I suspect more retraction would be needed.

The name can almost be read. But what's with the hole in the bottom left?

On a second partial print with higher start position, you can almost read the undertext.

Unfortunately, the Rubinrot (RAL 3003) offered is not quite the shade of red we want in the kitchen, we want Kirschrot. And the filament that they call Kirschrot is misdescribed as Rubinrot, so not I don't really know what it is.

One problem with PETG is that it doesn't print into thin air as easily. Not only does it sag in horizontal prints, unless PLA which can actually print straight across nothing, but it also requires support at a much higher overhang angle. An attempt involving a halfcircle fell down despite support material at an overhang of 40 degrees.

I'm starting up my balcony garden, now that it's nice weather again, and I want to use the two semi-spherical plant boxes I have, However, they don't come with a good holder, nor a good hole to stick a holder through. So rather than drilling a little hole, I of course design a matching holder:

I believe the PETG would be the appropriate material for this, having better structural integrity as well as probably being able to withstand the weather better. I should probably print it sideways to not put the stress on the layers, but across them, and to avoid the overhang problem above.

An advantage of using Octoprint is that I can go back and see what I have printed, hence the many things listed this time.

by Lars Clausen ( at May 24, 2017 08:56 PM

Public RSS-Feed of Whosa whatsis. Created with the PIXELMECHANICS 'GPlusRSS-Webtool' at

I'll have to count up screws and stuff before I can make a proper BOM for the Cranestyle Mini, but here...

I'll have to count up screws and stuff before I can make a proper BOM for the Cranestyle Mini, but here are some links to get you started:

* 1x NEMA14 TR5*2 linear stepper (note: Robotdigg motors are wired 1324 and come with cables that cross-over the 2 and 3 wires, but if you want to do any nicer wiring, you'll need to know that):*2-Acme-Leadscrew
* 3x high-torque NEMA14 (these unfortunately don't have D shafts, post if you find a good source that does):
Alternative, you might try these instead, they're more expensive (shipping is also insane, IIRC), and you'll need a supply voltage of at least 24v for them to be viable, but they do have a D shaft (also, wires are integrated, which I don't like):
* 3x Pololu Stamped Aluminum L-Bracket for NEMA 14 Stepper Motors (these could be replaced with RP parts, but they are good for rigidity and heat sinking purposes):
* 1x MGN9C and 2x MGN12C, all 150mm long. Robotdigg has the MGN9, but only has MGN12 in longer lengths (which I suppose you could cut down if you really wanted). Both can also be found on both Amazon and Aliexpress.
* 1x each of Misumi HFS5-2040-220 (this one is actually a bit long, and I might revise it to 210mm) and HFS5-2080-150. While you're ordering there, you might as well get one pack each of M3 and M5 T-nuts.
* 2x Gates GT 2MR196 belts, 6mm width (closed loop, 196-tooth, the current version will not work with cut belts, but this will probably change)
* 2x 16T GT2 pulleys
* 1x CR8 hot end (1.75mm version, and you will also need thermal grease/heatsink compound to assemble it, and a 30mm fan, or the X carriage can be modified to fit a different hot end):,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_10136_10157_10137_10060_10138_10155_10062_10156_437_10154_5010020_10056_10055_10054_10059_303_100030_100031_10099_100029_10103_100028_10102_10096_10147_10052_10053_10050_10107_10142_10051_10084_10083_5190020_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_519_10111_10112_10113_10114_10037_10183_10182_10185_10032_10078_10079_10077_10073_10123_142-10050,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_7&btsid=1a8d0bc3-cb90-460b-9748-141a36548a1c&algo_expid=ff0c2010-8ff9-4c06-8d2f-b684b9b732da-0&algo_pvid=ff0c2010-8ff9-4c06-8d2f-b684b9b732da
* 6x F623 bearings for smooth-side belt pulleys PLUS an additional 8x for toothed-side pulleys OR substitute 4x 16T pulleys with bearings for an m3 shaft (not yet tested):
* 1x v623 bearing used for extruder idler (or it can be modified to use a regular bearing, extruder design may also not be final):
* 1x Tatsu Mini drive gear (extruder can be modified to use a different gear):
* 1x E3D embedded bowden coupling (also check US resellers):
* 1x Openbuilds 100mm platform heater (I actually used the older version, but this one should be better):

There are also plenty of nuts and bolts that I'll have to measure and count, but that should get you started.

May 24, 2017 07:08 AM

May 23, 2017

Tales of a modern life

ATC: parts for my CNC arrived

Project history

  1. After evaluating my choices in  back in February
  2. I decided on what ATC system to get for my CNC mill in March. (posting contains MACH3 software references)
  3. Now the Usovo parts for my CNC finally arrived.
  4. next: mounting spindle and cables
  5. Defining M06 tool change macro
  6. Next project: designing a chain link tool library

Too late to install them during the easter holidays but they arrived.

PROBLEM!!! - update: Solution in progress
The water-pump Usovo has shipped in the WZW105 kit,
does not fit the spindle and tubes they included. It has fittings for much larger tubes.
I may find out what thread they use and find fitting to fix this however it may mean that the water pump is not strong enough to push water (and more importantly: small air bubbles) through the smaller tubes.

Update: It'2 now 2 weeks with no answer from Usovo regarding both issues.

Update: I got an answer. The water pump fitting where an honnest mistake and apparently I got 5 SK15 tool holders for the ring system, not for this system and a single, DIFFERENTLY LOOKING SK15 holders also for the ring system. I'm making an adapter to use the top-system, pneumatic tool magazine with tool holders designed for the ring system.


I already have the Usovo Manual in German and English.
I also found this document with meassurements (page 9) for the tool magazines

tool #1 X=0 Y=565 Z=0
tool #1 X=0 Y=530 Z=0
tool #1 X=0 Y=495 Z=0
tool #1 X=0 Y=460 Z=0
tool #1 X=0 Y=425 Z=0
tool #1 X=0 Y=390 Z=0
tool sensor X=18 Y=585 Z=0


Since there are so few detail photos of them
(especially of the backside and inside of the control box)
I made some photos for everyone who considers the same upgrade.

Photos - Unboxing


Photos - main box


Photos - Power supply 

Photos - water pump


Because the pump has no mounting holes, I designed a simple mount for it:

Photos - spindle and mount

by Marcus Wolschon ( at May 23, 2017 06:21 AM

May 22, 2017


Robotic Arm


6 Axis:


by Andrew Falgout at May 22, 2017 07:06 PM